I have wire wheeled my blaster frame down to bare metal. if I dont want to powder coat the frame, Can I kyrlon paint the frame or should I use an automotive paint instead. Any hints or tricks here?

Chuck

 

Krylon H2O spray paint is not an automotive paint,never the less its good paint. Also the auto paint is good paint but wouldn't paint my frame with either, it wont last long on a atv. But if you don't want to
powder coat(thats the best). Auto paint with clear coat will be better than Krylon.

 

i used rustoleom. 1 coat primer , 4coats paint , 3 coats clearcoat. so far its good going on 10 months. only a couple of chips underneath. but thats the beauty of spray,some sanding and a little touch up. powdercoating is the best but touch up is not as easy.

 

If you have the resources and the money.... CHROME, it's longer lasting than even the powder coat and cleans up great (and easy) but it IS expensive.

I'd like to chrome one of mine. Those environmentalists have made chroming very expensive. If I were really talented, I might weld up my own with Stainless if I wanted the best possible frame materials....

I'm gonna go with "goat" on this one for reality though.... Rustoleum. Primer, paint, and clear coat. Lasts pretty well on almost everything I have painted with it.

Painting the plastics I used the Molecular bonding stuff and it works great. The only issue I have had with it, is the gas tank area lost some color and got stained from fuel.... I'll email a picture or two if you want a look at the plastics....

 

Prime the frame with Acid 7 self etching primer. Then you can use Por- 15 or chassis saver enamel. They both shine when dry and will not chip. Hardens when dried. Good stuff. Auto restorers use it. Check it out !
Check online or

Restomotive Labortories
POR-15
Morristown,NJ 07962-1235

 

Use the Rustoleum oil based stuff, rough it up really well and give it a coat of primer, which I would proceed to rough up again and then give it a final coat of primer, followed by 2 or 3 coats of paint, and at least 2 coats of clear coat, if not more. Another great paint would be Valspar Industrial Anti-Rust oil-based spray enamel; it is a tier above Rustoleum, and is an amazing paint.

 

I like the metal por 15 products. I think this is the best solution for me
Thanks for the tip.!

http://www.stoprust.net/POR-15...L-MASK-Quart-p-78.html

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: chuckneste

I like the metal por 15 products. I think this is the best solution for me

Thanks for the tip.!



http://www.stoprust.net/POR-15...L-MASK-Quart-p-78.html</end quote></div>

POR 15 is a great product line. You'll like the finished product.

Something to note:

POR 15 should be handled VERY Carefully. That stuff has carcenogens in it and I think a small amount of arsenic (or some other poison that's terribly dangerous). So when you do use it I recommend you wear WHOLE BODY protection. HEAD COVERAGE, and all. A Little bit of it is known to make people sick for weeks sometimes. Cover your coverage around wrists, neck, and ankles twice and rubber band your sleeves to the gloves that you should be wearing anyway. Fabric gloves are not adequate protection. READ AND FOLLOW DIRECTIONS AND SAFETY INFORMATION TO THE T. USE A RESPIRATOR. The best one you can buy.

Now how's that cost thing sounding for some powder coating?

 

I don't powdercoat ATV stuff, but I run a production department and I have a powder coating shop. We use hybrid powders (indoor) It wouldn't take more then 10lbs for a ATV frame. I buy black powder for under $4 pound. I would hope you find someone to do it for under $100.
Depending upon how much you buy (or the company stocks) it should be right around the same price per pound.

Good luck.