Is there a diffrence in years in the clutch assembly on the warrior. I have a 97' warrior, with what i thought was a stock clutch, and by the chymlers I have it is, but its for 88' and up. It shows I have two rings on the 2nd and fith pressure plates, and I do. The guy at the local shop only shows me having one after the first plate on his diagram.

Now I have bought 2 clutches, first Barnett and thought it just must be the wrong one, and know a EBC. The Friction plates are thinner and when I put the boss and rear preassure plate on there the boss and preassure plate touch metal to metal.

Is there a diffrence in years? I am about to add one friction plate and drive plate it looks to be right, and try it.

Any Input?

 

As far as I know, there is no difference in years. I put Raptor 660 friction plates in my old Warrior, they were the same size as the Warrior plates, but had more surface area where the plates contact each other. I don't know what the 2 rings are for. I always threw mine away.

 

yeah, they don't seem to serve a purpose. I just found were three diffrent clutch kits are for all years.....
Would adding a extra drive and friction plate to make the clutch work hurt anything?

 

You can add an extra steel plate to make the pack a little thicker. This will make the clutch's life longer for 2 reasons. One is that there will be a little more pressure on the plates because of extra compression on the springs, but mainly this helps because by some flaw in the original design, the pressure plate runs out of travel and bottoms out when the friction material is only worn about halfway. I think adding an extra friction plate on top of that would add too much thickness to the pack, so i'd just stick with an extra steel. That's a pretty common thing to do with warriors.

As far as those little rings in the center of the pack, the purpose is to help seperate the plates evenly so the clutch doesn't drag so bad when it's disengaged. They're supposed to be a wave shape, but as they get older they lose tension, flatten out, and don't do any good.

 

So I put it back together and checked and rechecked. Went to pull it out of the shop and it goes into gear but the cluth won't engage(diengage) it wont go!!!!

I had adjusted the little tab that comes out and pushes on the outer preassure plate where it would be flush with the rim, with the pivot arm in what i thought was the right place. Reason i did thi is when i put it together with it all the way back in there, there was no clutch pull.. (I just ordered a new cable becuase i think that was the problem, so I'm going to pull it out and set it all the way back in the hole.

Does this sound right, becuase I am tired of wasting oil and pulling the side case off!!!!!!!!! Or is there something I am missing?

Recon- How much you asking for our warrior? I have a friend that we are looking for a bike for his little brother, just wondering

 

That's now how you set the position of the actuator arm. First you need to remove the c-clip and pull the actuator arm off the splines, then turn the shaft clockwise until you can feel the peg come against the clutch. Then install your actuator arm with the shaft in that position, and with the arm between the 2 marks on the clutch cover.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: recon99

That's now how you set the position of the actuator arm. First you need to remove the c-clip and pull the actuator arm off the splines, then turn the shaft clockwise until you can feel the peg come against the clutch. Then install your actuator arm with the shaft in that position, and with the arm between the 2 marks on the clutch cover.</end quote></div>

ok. thx.... would this explan the problem i am having ?

what about your warrior?

 

was looking at bike bandit schematic and it shows the #1 friction plate to be diffrent then all the rest, anyone know why?

 

One of the friction plates is different than all the rest because that one rides agianst the clutch boss instead of a regular steel plate. It really doesn't make a difference, all the aftermarket kits i've seen have the same size for all the plates. Yamaha just made the design a little overcomplicated.

If you didn't set your actuator arm properly as I described, then yes that will cause problems. If it's not set so the arm is in that the arm is between those marks on the cover when pressure starts being applied it'll be all wrong.

My warrior is already sold, but thanks for your interest.

 

i figured it out. took it to the local parts store and we went throught the clutch and it wasn't right. then he made the coment about you can put the rear preassure plate in anyway and it dosent matter, well guess what it does, the third time everything went flush.