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01 bear tracker, carb issues

  #11  
Old 10-06-2009, 09:49 PM
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Pretty good idea. I'm going to be getting my replacement intake / hose assembly this weekend, too. Please let me know how your idea works out for you.
 
  #12  
Old 09-05-2010, 08:09 AM
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This rubber hose between the carb and intake is bonded to the short intake tube and that is why there is no hose clamp on it. The original part has bonding on 2 surfaces and once you get the old one off you might see rubber still bonded to the intake pipe.

I pulled mine and cleaned it a bit, replaced the intake tube but now it is running somewhat worse than before. I can now get it to idle without the choke on but it is very rough and the floats are not stopping fuel from entering the bowl so I found a large gas spot under the machine after a short break.

I'll get it off again today and will pull the jets and float to clean them and hope that it will be fixed once I get it back together.
I need to figure out what if any settings I need to change. I noticed that if I have it running with the choke open at a higher REV, the exhaust pipe starts to glow red hot and I can only imagine that is way to hot for this engine and not good on the piston or rings.
 
  #13  
Old 09-06-2010, 07:55 AM
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Default carb problems

I was wondering if you could help me bear tracker carb problem as well will not start while cranking the fuel fills up the air filter box did take carb off cleaned out but still does the same thing any answers?
 
  #14  
Old 09-06-2010, 10:54 AM
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Not much help here as I work in the medical field and not a mechanic. I do notice that cranking with out starting will cause some fuel to go back into the airbox.
Now if you have fuel flowing back into the airbox it would sound like the float is not stopping the fuel flow and the overflow is blocked (small line running out the bottom of carb) and I would guess the next place for fuel to reach would be the air box. Might be difficult to imagine it happening that way though.

As for my carb, someone had already been in there and messed up the screws on the outside of the carb top and bottom. This is usually not a good sign when someone screws up the heads on the screws. What was worse than that since I was able to grind a slot in them and get them out, was the screwed up pilot screw. I see no way of getting it out and since I am not a machine shop I plan on solving my problem with a new carb for $334. Sure it is expensive on an ATV that I have purchased for $500 but I think its overall value is still more than what I have invested in it. A new carb should get it running well.

Anyone want an old carb for "parts"? Make offer!
 
  #15  
Old 09-16-2010, 09:15 PM
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i had same problem with intake tube i tookthe rubber part off and then ground the carb side of intake so it was the same size as the rest of the intake then i cut a uper radeator hose off a chevy pu and put inbetween and used two hoseclamps and havent had a problem with it any moore
 
  #16  
Old 09-19-2010, 01:46 AM
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Originally Posted by sschevel
This rubber hose between the carb and intake is bonded to the short intake tube and that is why there is no hose clamp on it. The original part has bonding on 2 surfaces and once you get the old one off you might see rubber still bonded to the intake pipe.

I pulled mine and cleaned it a bit, replaced the intake tube but now it is running somewhat worse than before. I can now get it to idle without the choke on but it is very rough and the floats are not stopping fuel from entering the bowl so I found a large gas spot under the machine after a short break.

I'll get it off again today and will pull the jets and float to clean them and hope that it will be fixed once I get it back together.
I need to figure out what if any settings I need to change. I noticed that if I have it running with the choke open at a higher REV, the exhaust pipe starts to glow red hot and I can only imagine that is way to hot for this engine and not good on the piston or rings.
same problem for me on a beartracker. the bonded part on the intake hose had came loose. i went and put anew one on and everything runs great now. i tried to reglue it with 3m weatherstrip glue. it worked for a few days and came loose again. this problem with the intake happens alot on beartracker.

BRU
 
  #17  
Old 09-19-2010, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ssupercoolss
picked up a bear tracker cheap, with some issues. it was running away, popping, and had to keep the choke on, etc....took the carb off, cleaned it up, now its running much better. sort of. now is seems as though it is getting way too much air, or not enough fuel. i have the adjustment screw turned out more turns than i like to admit. messing around with things a bit i took the air filter out, and partially blocked the intake with duct tape, which in turn makes it run much better. missing a little punch off the line, but not totally bogging out. any ideas here? i dont claim to be the carb king, but this seems to be the most complex carb i have seen in a while.
Not sure how similiar the Bear Tracker carburetor is to the Timberwolf, but I am working on a 98 T-Wolf with the same simptoms you described. No vacuum leaks found, rebuilt carb with no problems found I put everything back together and found that if I block the choke air inlet at the front of the carb (filter side of the carb) the engine runs great, starts up and idles fine and runs out good but still will sometimes have the run away engine speed problem even though the throttle is closed. My theroy on the run away rpm's is either the slider valve is worn, the bore for the slider valve in the carb is worn or both. I am seriously thinking about a new carb.
 
  #18  
Old 10-20-2010, 11:13 AM
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I just replaced that part on my wheeler (beartracker). After seeing the new part it is pretty clear that the aluminum and the rubber are fused/molded together in the manufacturing of the part. My wheeler is ten years old with a fair amount of use; so ten years isn't to bad for longevity of that pricey bugger.
 
  #19  
Old 01-09-2011, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Green '01
We have an '01 Bear Tracker 250 with similar carb issues. The thing won't run unless the choke is pulled out just a touch - guess it could use a good cleaning. It has been left alone for a couple of months at a time without being run, but was always stored with a fuel aditive in the tank and run through the carb. Anyway, it recently developed a new problem. It started popping and stalled. Discovered the rubber intake tube (between the carb and the cast aluminum intake on the cylinder head) has become loose and there is a gap which allows air into the intake without going through the carb. There is only one clamp at the carb-to-rubber tube side and none at the rubber tube-to-intake side (where it came apart). The blow-up parts diagram from the dealership shows the same thing, so how is the rubber tube supposed to stay attached tightly at both ends with only one hose clamp at one end? They want me to buy a $40 replacement intake assembly that still has just one clamp at one end. The other end seems to just be relying merely on pressure againstthe carb to keep the flanged end of the rubber tube tight to the aluminum intake tube. The design doesn't seem to lend itself to the installation of any kind of clamp I know of. If you have a 250 Bear Tracker (around 2001), please look at yours and let me know if There is a clamp at both ends of the rubber tube between the carb and aluminum intake, or is there only one - like mine.
Thanks.
I have a 2002 and you are right the piece between the carb and head only has one hose clamp the other side is bonded to the little manifold piece there is also a o-ring where it connects to the head i reused the one and it seems to work. I still have a issue with it cutting out some at take off.
 
  #20  
Old 01-12-2011, 06:28 PM
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Default hey boys

if you look in the royal distributing cat. there is a intake manifold you can buy bit more expensive but way better design
 

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