Just picked up a 2001 Yamaha Blaster - Have questions
I just picked up a very clean 2001 Yamaha Blaster for $500.00. It’s a two owner machine and has been ridden very lightly. It will need new tires, and I ordered new boyseen reeds, new graphic kit, spark plug, handlebar grips and air filter for it.
Also, I would like to change the oil and was wondering which oil you would recommend? Should I use synthetic or regular oil? If so, what should the weight be?
Thank you for your answers!
~1982 Suzuki ALT50 Trail Buddy
~1985 Honda Big Red 250ES ATC
~1985 Yamaha Tri Moto 225DX
~1987 Kawasaki KXT250 Tecate 3
~1994 Honda Cub EZ90
~2001 Yamaha Blaster
~2004 Kawasaki KFX80
~2012 Cam Am Outlander 1000XT
Put those two posts together and you have a decent answer.
I generally just use the stuff that Yamaha Sells and recommends for their motors. The Owners manual is available online for free, and it shows all the basic stuff like that.
I don't think it's gonna hurt to use synthetic oil,... but I don't feel like there's a huge gain from using it in these 2 stroke motors..... It's a "whatever you like" decision... until you start racing and you will need to have a lot of things changed to do any serious competing anyway.
DONT JUST THROW ANY OIL IN THE TRANS ON A BLASTER!!! It must be ATV or motorcycle specific oil or oil that is "wet clutch compatible" or "contains no friction modifiers".... Reason being the blaster uses a wet clutch. Meaning that clutch is lubricated with the transmission oil. If you use an oil that is not compatible with a wet clutch then your clutch will slip. If you want more details check out the link in my signature. I have a TON of how to vids. Some are on the banshee but most apply to any two stroke ATV.
as far as a tire change, Brand is important, but size is, in my opinion, more important. If you can find a good deal on them, the tires that were available on the 2006 YFZ450 are awesome tires for this machine. The wheel size is different and the hub is different, but the hubs from the Raptor and YFZ are the same axle fit as the Blaster, and direct replacement, so a set of hubs would be needed.
I found the 20 inch tires to give more low end torque and it just feels like you have 20% more power to the ground with the wider tires. The factory balloon tires pretty much suck.
Changing to a "performance" type tire also gives you a harder feeling ride, giving more feedback from the ground to the pegs/seat (whichever part you're using at the time)....
Although, I do like the Holeshots, Razors and other Aftermarket tires, those Dunlops have held up pretty well for me as a "sometimes" rider nowadays. I'm finding it harder and harder to find places to ride that don't require I drive at least 2 hours to ride.
My Blaster has been bored 60 over, and the FMF Gold Series I bought off ebay was a steal at 80 bucks for both pieces. It definitely woke up the Engine too.
Sorry you are right I did not completely answer his question, so here it is 10W-40 is useless unless you live in very cold climates as the W means winter NOT weight. So you have a 40 weight oil that physically changes viscosity below 0 degrees Fahrenheit to 10 weight. So stick with a good synthetic standard 40 or 50 weight motorcycle oil. We use royal purple because it has proven itself in our blasters and banshees. As far as power adders, fmf fatty pipe, port job and carb upgrade are a must. Not gonna go into detail on here but if you e-mail me at firstname.lastname@example.org I will be glad to give you some info to help you make your blaster really really fast. As I said we do race these little bikes and if done right they will eat 450's for lunch. The reason is the horse power to weight ratio is prime. I know there are gonna be a few people say there is no way a blaster can beat a yfz450 and that's their opinion, meet us at loretta lynn's GNCC race in november because our blaster will be there and ready for those heavy lumbering 4 strokes. And remember if it is fast there must be oil in the gas.
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