99 Big Bear 350 4x4 Issues,... "Please" Help!!!!
#1
99 Big Bear 350 4x4 Issues,... "Please" Help!!!!
I have a owned a 99 Big Bear 350 4x4 since I bought it new. Overall, alot of issues that I have learned to "deal with".
However, this particular issue has me dead in the water:
I have a broken part on the shifting assembly and I'm not sure what it is called, and how much is involved in replacing it. I have, till now, taken the atv to the dealer for repairs, but simply can't afford to so anymore.
Here are the pictures of the broken part:
From, of course, this part of the shifting assembly:
I have a good idea what caused it, and am not sure what to do to fix it: The atv runs only with the choke in the fully closed, (all the way out), position. After I ride it for a LONG time, about 25 minutes, it "might" idle with the choke not on, but normally will not unless fully choked.
So, because of this, I end up having the rpm's thru the sky, in order to keep it running. Needless to say, upon shifting, with the idle so high, I have to "REALLY" pull "HARD" on the shifter lever. Or, if I can "time it rite", I can put the choke in real fast, shift, and then pull choke back out to make the atv run.
I would greatly appreciate any help you might be able to give me, and can't wait to get this on the trails again!!!
P.S. Is there a "legitemate" online downloadable manual for this atv? Whats a good price to pay for one?
Thanks,
chris
However, this particular issue has me dead in the water:
I have a broken part on the shifting assembly and I'm not sure what it is called, and how much is involved in replacing it. I have, till now, taken the atv to the dealer for repairs, but simply can't afford to so anymore.
Here are the pictures of the broken part:
From, of course, this part of the shifting assembly:
I have a good idea what caused it, and am not sure what to do to fix it: The atv runs only with the choke in the fully closed, (all the way out), position. After I ride it for a LONG time, about 25 minutes, it "might" idle with the choke not on, but normally will not unless fully choked.
So, because of this, I end up having the rpm's thru the sky, in order to keep it running. Needless to say, upon shifting, with the idle so high, I have to "REALLY" pull "HARD" on the shifter lever. Or, if I can "time it rite", I can put the choke in real fast, shift, and then pull choke back out to make the atv run.
I would greatly appreciate any help you might be able to give me, and can't wait to get this on the trails again!!!
P.S. Is there a "legitemate" online downloadable manual for this atv? Whats a good price to pay for one?
Thanks,
chris
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Thanks again vangasman! I'm hoping you might be able to help me with another issue:
The "clutch" handle, (at least that's what I think it is), cable and actual handle has somehow managed to seperate. The pictures below show the current state of it, and I am not sure what/if any parts might be needed, or if it's an adjustment thing?
The handle just doesn't seem to come back to the position it should. It's almost like the thing has a broken spring or something.
I am still looking to find a site to order the part for the Heim Joint from, and will order this at the same time.
Is Ebay a good place to go for parts as well?
Thanks so much for your time!
Chris
The "clutch" handle, (at least that's what I think it is), cable and actual handle has somehow managed to seperate. The pictures below show the current state of it, and I am not sure what/if any parts might be needed, or if it's an adjustment thing?
The handle just doesn't seem to come back to the position it should. It's almost like the thing has a broken spring or something.
I am still looking to find a site to order the part for the Heim Joint from, and will order this at the same time.
Is Ebay a good place to go for parts as well?
Thanks so much for your time!
Chris
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yeah just cleaning the carb will most likely do the job new bowl gasket if needed check the needle and seat to while you are in there run a twisty tie through the jets ( strip off the plastic covering) brake cleaner usually works good and compressed air blow brake cleaner through every single passage in the carb then blow out with compressed air then put it back together and take it for a rip set the air/fuel screw to bout 2 1/4 turns out.
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