Hi,

I have a 2001 Yamaha Blaster and having issues with the rear brakes. The caliber is not closing when pressing the foot/parking brake. The cable is working well as well as the pedal.

Is there something within the caliber that would prevent this from happening?

Any information would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
IronBear

 

Yes, there are parts that can be adjusted or replaced or something..... Most times I've seen problems with them, they seem to get locked up, not ineffective completely..... It's only a couple of bolts and some time.... take it apart and do some looking and see what's amiss..... they're pretty simple brakes.

 

the old cable brakes they used on the rear are crap imo they constantly need adjustment(almost every ride) you can clean an adjust them or with a lil work you can convert them over, the 2003 an newer had the better brake setup and its all a direct bolt on except the pedal an resi

 

That's a good thought but I'm not looking to spend a ton of money, unless I can get the parts for real cheap.

 

i would say i spent about $200 for the conversion $40 for the carrier $60 for the banshee axle(widened it by 3") and about $100 for the brakes an misc. parts to make it work i bought it a lil at a time untill i had what i needed

 

There are conversions available that ARE indeed direct bolt on, but don't make the mistake of buying second hand '03 and up Blaster brakes unless you buy the proper parts to go with it.... The Rear axle bearing housing is different as well as the rear axle and the frame.... The brake pedal is different as well as the right side foot peg (Shaft that holds the brake pedal on)..... The mechanical brakes work.... just not without some attention, the Hydraulics are much better and less maintenance....

I'm probably even missing more parts... like the rear rotor is different as well..... along with the hub for it is a solid mount instead of a floating rotor.... I'm not a fan of the floating rotor, but like I said... it works if you keep up with it and maintain it right... it's really not that hard to work on or adjust... it just takes a few minutes once in a while..... Maybe mroe parts too.... I have everything to convert mine over... including a frame and pedal and swing-arm, and rear bearing housing, axle all of it.... If you live nearby, I'll sell it all to you if you want.... It's just money.

Sorry.... I just read your Location and realized I have no location listed... I'm in North Texas.... not a real convenient situation for parts swapping.... but We can talk if you're interested.... PM me....

 

Thank you for all your responses. Do you know if 'rebuild kits' are available for the stock brake setup?

I need to get these brakes fixed ASAP as I'm doing a MT Washington (highest mountain in New Hampshire) ATV ride in a few weeks, and brakes are a must.

A new caliber is close to $200.00 and I'm not spending that kind of money.

If someone knows of a place where I can get a rebuild kit, with instructions on how to install it, then that would be great.

IronBear

 

Unless you've just cobbed the caliper up rally bad, you should be able to take it apart, clean it up, re-assmble it with maybe a new seal or something to keep dirt out, and be fine, once you re-assemble it and adjust it.... You can buy every part of it through Yamaha, including a new cable.... I'd recommend finding the aftermarket Brake cable that eliminates the part to the Handle Bars though.... Usually a better cable and only one connection point to deal with. Go to the Sport motorcycle pages on the Yamaha Motorcycle web site, and look for the parts and service links..... find the catalog section and look up any parts you need... that can't be found elsewhere. It's really that easy.

 

Thank you very much! I ordered new brake pads and the updated cable setup. The old brake pad (in the caliber) is being a pain to come out so I'll have to figure out a way for that to come off. Was thinking about drilling a hole in the center of the pad, then forcing it out. I'm sure I'll get the stock setup to work for now. Down the road, I'll upgrade to the hydraulic setup.

 

UPDATE!

I had to use a file and wire brush to hone the brake pad hole so that the brake pad would fit properly. Before placing the pad into the caliber, I greased the inside of the hole, and outside of the pad, but the pad is still tight.

Once the aftermarket cable comes in, I will then install the caliber and hopefully, this time the brakes will finally work.