What? 17 tooth front sprocket on a warrior with the big 3 ?!?
#1
What? 17 tooth front sprocket on a warrior with the big 3 ?!?
The guy I bought my warrior 350from said it has a 17 tooth front sprocket? But it spins 20" itp holeshot hd that are 90% tread every time I shift in gravel or dirt. It has a full fmf system and k&n filter with jetting and it feels like it could go a lot faster.
From what I read a 17 tooth front would be to much for a 350 but perfect for a 446 stroker.
So does this sound right?
From what I read a 17 tooth front would be to much for a 350 but perfect for a 446 stroker.
So does this sound right?
#2
A stock Warrior will not pull a 17 tooth front sprocket if the rear sprocket is stock. You could run a 17 tooth front if you have a bigger-than-stock rear, but that setup wouldn't make a lot of sense. If I remember correctly stock is 13 front, 38? rear. A 14 tooth front, and stock rear works good if you have a pipe and filter and 20" rear tires.
Why not just count the teeth to see what you have?
Why not just count the teeth to see what you have?
#3
A stock Warrior will not pull a 17 tooth front sprocket if the rear sprocket is stock. You could run a 17 tooth front if you have a bigger-than-stock rear, but that setup wouldn't make a lot of sense. If I remember correctly stock is 13 front, 38? rear. A 14 tooth front, and stock rear works good if you have a pipe and filter and 20" rear tires.
Why not just count the teeth to see what you have?
Why not just count the teeth to see what you have?
#4
I'm not sure about the MPH you lose, there is a formula to calculate it that deals with gear ratio and RPM, etc, but math was never my favorite subject! I would guess you would lose about 2 MPH on the top end speed with the smaller tires, but you get to top speed slightly quicker which makes it more fun to drive. You could get a 14 tooth front sprocket to make up the difference, but if you dont have the pipe and filter you will lose some on the bottom end to the point it will be hard to even do a wheelie in 2nd or 3rd gears (if you like doing wheelies).
#5
I'm not sure about the MPH you lose, there is a formula to calculate it that deals with gear ratio and RPM, etc, but math was never my favorite subject! I would guess you would lose about 2 MPH on the top end speed with the smaller tires, but you get to top speed slightly quicker which makes it more fun to drive. You could get a 14 tooth front sprocket to make up the difference, but if you dont have the pipe and filter you will lose some on the bottom end to the point it will be hard to even do a wheelie in 2nd or 3rd gears (if you like doing wheelies).
#6
I don't know how it will do with a 15 tooth. I would guess it would be geared too high. I never ran a 15 tooth with that setup but I did run a 14 tooth and a 14 tooth was as high as I would like to go for my riding style. But I weigh 220 lbs and like my bottom end pull. If you weigh less you might can get away with it.
#7
I don't know how it will do with a 15 tooth. I would guess it would be geared too high. I never ran a 15 tooth with that setup but I did run a 14 tooth and a 14 tooth was as high as I would like to go for my riding style. But I weigh 220 lbs and like my bottom end pull. If you weigh less you might can get away with it.
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#8
#9
The Gearing Commander website has software to determine MPH in each gear by RPM limit, tire size and sprocket size. It will also give you an idea of what chain size you need for different front and rear sprocket sizes, but as a general rule of thumb you can usually go up or down a couple of sizes on the front sprocket without having to change chain size as long as there is enough adjustment in the chain adjuster. From what I've seen the information from the program is fairly accurate. The Warrior is listed in the program under 161 Yamaha YFM 350 Rapter 87-97. Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator
If you haven't done it yet you could pick up a little more power and top end speed by modifying you airbox by either removing the lid or opening it up with some holes to increase airflow and rejetting your carb. An ignition from Dynatek would alter your timing curves and give you a higher RPM limit increasing top speed. Cutting your plastic and removing the mudflaps for reduced drag also helps increase top end speed at a certain point from what I've seen at the track. On my Polaris Sport the factory fenders and mudflaps started slowing me down somewhere between 58-62 MPH.
Once I started reaching speeds of over 80 MPH I noticed how unstable and twitchy my quads were at that speed so I lowered and widened them to help make them more stable. Weight reduction is also a good idea on a quad. It won't increase your top end speed, but it's free and it will help you get up to speed quicker.
If you haven't done it yet you could pick up a little more power and top end speed by modifying you airbox by either removing the lid or opening it up with some holes to increase airflow and rejetting your carb. An ignition from Dynatek would alter your timing curves and give you a higher RPM limit increasing top speed. Cutting your plastic and removing the mudflaps for reduced drag also helps increase top end speed at a certain point from what I've seen at the track. On my Polaris Sport the factory fenders and mudflaps started slowing me down somewhere between 58-62 MPH.
Once I started reaching speeds of over 80 MPH I noticed how unstable and twitchy my quads were at that speed so I lowered and widened them to help make them more stable. Weight reduction is also a good idea on a quad. It won't increase your top end speed, but it's free and it will help you get up to speed quicker.
#10
The Gearing Commander website has software to determine MPH in each gear by RPM limit, tire size and sprocket size. It will also give you an idea of what chain size you need for different front and rear sprocket sizes, but as a general rule of thumb you can usually go up or down a couple of sizes on the front sprocket without having to change chain size as long as there is enough adjustment in the chain adjuster. From what I've seen the information from the program is fairly accurate. The Warrior is listed in the program under 161 Yamaha YFM 350 Rapter 87-97. Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator
If you haven't done it yet you could pick up a little more power and top end speed by modifying you airbox by either removing the lid or opening it up with some holes to increase airflow and rejetting your carb. An ignition from Dynatek would alter your timing curves and give you a higher RPM limit increasing top speed. Cutting your plastic and removing the mudflaps for reduced drag also helps increase top end speed at a certain point from what I've seen at the track. On my Polaris Sport the factory fenders and mudflaps started slowing me down somewhere between 58-62 MPH.
Once I started reaching speeds of over 80 MPH I noticed how unstable and twitchy my quads were at that speed so I lowered and widened them to help make them more stable. Weight reduction is also a good idea on a quad. It won't increase your top end speed, but it's free and it will help you get up to speed quicker.
If you haven't done it yet you could pick up a little more power and top end speed by modifying you airbox by either removing the lid or opening it up with some holes to increase airflow and rejetting your carb. An ignition from Dynatek would alter your timing curves and give you a higher RPM limit increasing top speed. Cutting your plastic and removing the mudflaps for reduced drag also helps increase top end speed at a certain point from what I've seen at the track. On my Polaris Sport the factory fenders and mudflaps started slowing me down somewhere between 58-62 MPH.
Once I started reaching speeds of over 80 MPH I noticed how unstable and twitchy my quads were at that speed so I lowered and widened them to help make them more stable. Weight reduction is also a good idea on a quad. It won't increase your top end speed, but it's free and it will help you get up to speed quicker.