2005 Kodiak 450 issue
#1
2005 Kodiak 450 issue
Looking for help!
2005 Kodiak 450 that when I turn the key on I have no lights. Can jump it off the starter solenoid and it will run for about 3 seconds and then die again. I have a new solenoid and a new battery. Need ideas of where to look next? Really hate to take it in, but I am really frustrated.
Thanks in advance
2005 Kodiak 450 that when I turn the key on I have no lights. Can jump it off the starter solenoid and it will run for about 3 seconds and then die again. I have a new solenoid and a new battery. Need ideas of where to look next? Really hate to take it in, but I am really frustrated.
Thanks in advance
#2
Surprised it runs at all but it sounds like the main fuse blown or the wire from the fuse to the ignition switch broken. You say you have fitted a new solenoid, on a Yam you can fit these backwards and this disconnects the fuse. B is stamped on the post you connect to the battery and an M on the one connected to the starter motor. The main fuse is on the solenoid by the way.
#3
Solenoid is hooked up correctly. Double checked it. Got it started by jumping the posts on the solenoid tonight. It stayed running and I was able to ride it for about 5 minutes or so. But turn off the key and no power to the ignition again. So any other ideas? Hate to take it to the dealership but it is looking like that is the next step
#4
It is a problem with that main fuse or the wire from it to ignition switch. The wire from the regulator branches into it so check if you have power to the regulator positive wire. Use a test lamp, not a meter. If you don't, the fault is close to the solenoid. If you do, the fault is between the regulator and switch, or the switch itself.
Just another thought, bad earth leads can cause problems too.
Just another thought, bad earth leads can cause problems too.
#7
Which and hand warmers are not working!!
It is a problem with that main fuse or the wire from it to ignition switch. The wire from the regulator branches into it so check if you have power to the regulator positive wire. Use a test lamp, not a meter. If you don't, the fault is close to the solenoid. If you do, the fault is between the regulator and switch, or the switch itself.
Just another thought, bad earth leads can cause problems too.
Just another thought, bad earth leads can cause problems too.
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#8
Both hand warmers and winch are accessories, so their electrics are as good as the person who fitted them. They should be on separate in line fuses, and most are wired via the accessory fuse in the bikes fuse box (if it has one) to stop them being left on with the ignition switched off. I work on very few bikes with winches, most farmers don't feel the need for one, as they know where to avoid on their own land, and can pull it out with the tractor if they need to. I do fit a lot of heated grips, and the grips themselves rarely last more than one year. If the warning light (if fitted) on the switch is on, and the grips don't work, suspect the heater elements in the grips. Check with a voltmeter or test lamp, if power is getting to the connector that each grip plugs into.
#9
Both hand warmers and winch are accessories, so their electrics are as good as the person who fitted them. They should be on separate in line fuses, and most are wired via the accessory fuse in the bikes fuse box (if it has one) to stop them being left on with the ignition switched off. I work on very few bikes with winches, most farmers don't feel the need for one, as they know where to avoid on their own land, and can pull it out with the tractor if they need to. I do fit a lot of heated grips, and the grips themselves rarely last more than one year. If the warning light (if fitted) on the switch is on, and the grips don't work, suspect the heater elements in the grips. Check with a voltmeter or test lamp, if power is getting to the connector that each grip plugs into.
#10
Heat demons are tricky as the wires are soldered onto the switch by whoever fits them. I don't work on many Yamahas, and haven't fitted accessories, so don't know where it is easiest to tap into a wire that is live with ignition on. Check with a test lamp or meter, if you are getting power to and from the wires behind the switch. Winch wiring is more complex as it is more like a starter, with thick wires that take high power from battery to winch, via solenoid(s), and thin wires that go to the switch and then on to the solenoid(s), but again, first check live is getting to the switch.