The fat one is either the charge(source) coil or the lighting coil..With this stator I'm not sure which is which..Do keep us posted as I'm still curious after all these years.

 

Don't believe this. Installed new aftermarket stator and pickups. The wires for both pickups were too short. I had to solder on more wire. No change! Same effin' problem. Just case, checked fuel flow through the end of the fuel hose to make sure there's good flow. Checked valve clearances. I've replaced everything! How can this be possible? I'm about to stick that aftermarket carb back on to verify that it does the same thing with the OEM carb or if my mind is playing tricks on me.

When i give it gas and it wants to die, it's a very steady rhythm, not like random misfiring. It sounds like it's intentionally missing beats in rhythm, much like what the rev limiter does when you leave the parking brake on. But I've disconnected the rev limiter. And usually, when you rev with the limiter on, it doesn't bog and kill the engine. It just limits the revs. Really annoyed.

 

I once had a Honda 300 with the same symptoms. I too changed the carb, being convinced it must be fuel related, with no improvement. As we have CDIs in stock, in desperation I tried a new one, instant cure, I still can't work out why. I know you have changed your CDI so it probably can't be that, but have you checked charging rate and all other electrical components?

 

Gentlemen, thanks for your input. So, I started back at square 1, the carb. I wanted to make sure I was getting the EXACT same issue with both carbs so i could once again rule out carb as the problem. The stock carb was as described; on throttle, engine misses beats rhythmically, gets worse with more throttle and dies. Installed the new carb. Did the same thing same thing except it also made popping noises out the intake. The popping was sometimes enough to knock the air filter off. I read some more forums and determined it could be running lean. Checked the fuel mix screw. Started at 2 turns out. Messed with the screw in and out 2 revolutions and made no change except when nearly completely closed. (Rewind: I tried to to adjust this carb the first time I installed it and after getting no reaction from the mix screw, I left it at 2 turns.) This time, I decided to back that screw out until it was going to fall out. After 6 turns, the idle went up slightly. I gave it throttle and the issue was almost gone! After about 7 turns, the problem was solved! I can't believe it was step 1 the whole time! So, I guess the original carb still had an obstruction somewhere and the new carb, being it's a cheap knockoff that wasn't machined very well, just took a ridiculous amount turning the fuel mix screw. But I thought this mix screw only affects idle. I thought once you go past 1/4 the mix screw is moot.

 

7 turns still doesn't sound right,but if it stays in place and runs ok... Yes it's hit or miss with these aftermarket Chinese carbs as far as all orifices being open also. Plus some people have cranked down too hard on pilot screws and broken these small tips off rendering carbs useless. This fuel mix does normally control from idle up to about 1/4 throttle or so,but people also forget this mixture continues to flow into the engine along with the main jet at higher speeds.

 

Check carbs float height it does make a difference, also make sure ignition wires are not crossed at any connection or device because bikes will run with wires backwards but with any more power supplies they start to rin choppy or flat crappy..."MAYBE"