hey guys, we recently traded a go kart for a sunL 110 cc quad for our boy, he ran it for about 4 hours total..then the chain slipped off and it died all at the same time..i towed it up to the garage and i noticed a wire down by the chain guard so i got a diagram it was for the brake light...so now i have no spark, i bought a brand new coil and CDI for it, checked the stator everything seems fine there...went through all the wiring and everything seems fine there...yet i still have no spark..i've tried bypassing the killswitch on the ignition...it will crank over..it just won't turn over...anymore suggestions besides junking it??

 

Just so I know where to start from, how exactly did you check the stator and the wiring? Is this a visual test, or did you use a meter? If you used a meter what values did you measure, and under what conditions were they measured?

How did you bypass the kill circuitry? The majority of times when someone says they "bypassed" something that means they shorted it out. In this case that would be 100% wrong. If you had said you "disconnected" the kill circuitry that would instill slightly more confidence.

No spark problems can be fixed. You need a meter, some guidance, and the ability to follow directions. Junking it would be a terrible idea.

 

well first off..lol...i'm sorry i don't know much about electrical...i didn't bypass anything ...i unhooked the kill switch...

secondly...he did a visual test on the stator...he actually wanted me to ask how to test it with a meter..what settings should i use and where should i test...

we also tried testing the cdi plug which is a 5 pin cdi based on another post you left, Lynn only i wasn't sure if we did it right...we had the meter on 2K and he had the ground in the ground slot in the clip and he tested the other 4 spots and we didn't get anything... so what settings should the meter be on and did we test that part right???

Thanks alot for the help..we really appreciate it!

 

This is the generic 5 pin CDI (so you don't have to go look it up):



You've disconnected the kill switch wire in the wiring harness so it does not connect to the CDI (if I understand your post correctly). Therefore it cannot be a kill switch issue.

Set your meter to read AC volts on the 200 volt scale. Test your meter by sticking the probes into a wall power outlet in your house. You should see about 120 volts AC. If you get that you know your meter is set up properly and working.

Now disconnect the CDI from the quad wiring harness. Measure the AC voltage on the AC ignition power pin of the wiring harness to engine ground while cranking the starter motor. That will be putting one lead on the wiring harness pin, and the other lead on the the aluminum motor block. You should see 45 to 80 volts AC at normal cranking speeds. What do you measure?

Set your meter to the lowest AC voltage scale that is has. 2 volts AC full scale would be ideal but many meters don't go that low. Use whatever the lowest range is, but make sure it is AC volts and not DC volts. Measure the voltage on the timing trigger pin in the wiring harness to engine ground while cranking the starter. You should see 0.2 to 0.5 volts AC. What do you measure?

Set your meter to measure resistance (ohms) on the 2K ohms scale (2000 ohms). When on the resistance settings you should read zero ohms with the leads shorted, and infinite ohms when the leads are not connected together.

Turn off the quad ignition switch. Measure the AC Ignition Power pin on the wiring to engine ground with the engine sitting still (not cranking). You should see 450 ohms or so (0.450 Kohms). Measure the Timing Trigger line to ground. You should read 150 ohms or so (0.150 Kohms) with the engine sitting still. What do you measure for both of those pins?

Set your meter to the lowest resistance scale it has (20 ohms is about right).. Measure the resistance of the ground pin in the CDI to engine ground. It should read zero ohms. Measure the Ignition coil pin to engine ground. It should 0.5 ohms or so. It should not read zero ohms. Report back any descrepancies with these two values.

 

Ok i measured the AC Voltage on the ignition power pin while cranking the starter and instead of 45 - 80 volts i got 0.

then i tested the timing trigger pin on 2 Volts ac while cranking it and instead of 0.2-0.5 i got 1.1

on the 2K ohm scale i tested the ignition power pin with the engine sitting still and instead of 450 or so..i got 0 again..

then on the timing trigger with the engine sitting still i got 0 also..

then i set the meter to a 20 ohm scale like you said and i tested resistance of the ground pin and it read 0 like you said...then i tested the ignition coil pin and i got 0.7


now there are a few other things i wanted to point out we're discovering with this... when we pulled the engine case of to check the stator and it the bottom half of it was cracked all to hell and there is a good size chunk(like 3 inch by 4 inch) missing so the whole bottom of the case is exposed...also the little black box (i followed the wire to the cdi i am assuming it is the timing trigger) is cracked so i didn't know if that would effect it...

then we found 2 white wires just hanging which i believe is comming out of the remote box...

the tether switch was ripped off prior to us getting it, but it did run when we first got it so i don't think that could be a problem...

then the handle bar killswitch wire (black + white) is broke off of wherever it goes too which we don't know...

 

This measurment suggests that the AC Ignition power winding in the stator is shorted. You read 0 ohms, and no voltage coming out. It is possible that your ignition power stator winding is shorted, but not very likely. I would recheck that.

These readings do not compute. You are saying this winding is shorted too (zero ohms), yet it puts out too much voltage. This is not possible. You're doing something wrong. Please recheck this.

These readings I could believe, but I would have more confidence if the previous readings weren't labeled suspect.

The timing trigger wire from the CDI goes through the wiring harness to a little pickup coil sitting inside the engine cover and outside the flywheel. The other side of the pickup coil is grounded. Is this the "black box" you are referring to?

If so, and it is cracked, then this is a problem. But this doesn't explain the 1.1 volts AC of measured signal coming out of this device while it is shorted out at the same time (as discussed above).

Which "remote box" is this? Is it in the stator housing? Elsewhere? How many pins? What are the other wire colors? For the wire colors post the colors of the wires in the main harness, and not the wire colors of the short pigtails that lead into the device (if there are pigtail wires).

Was the switch itself ripped off (so the wires that went to it were dangling), or was it the rubber plug that snaps on (with a pull cord attached) that was ripped off?

This wire need to be left alone (hanging free) for the engine to run. You short it to ground to make the engine stop. This wire is usually runs in tandem with several other kill switches (like part of the ignition switch), so if you use them to shut off the engine if you don't need to wire the handlebar switch back up. There is high voltage on this wire when the engine is turning or running. So don't let it hang free where someone can grab it.

 

i was also just curious...if the batter was bad, would that effect the tests you have me doing?? B/c i also noticed when i was testing the battery that it would read 12.15 or so but when i was cranking it over it would drop down to about 5.3 volts or so...

 

just wondering what is happening with this post. You have a very similar problem to mine. did you re-check the voltage from the stator?

 

Please see my response to your questions here:

http://forums.atvconnection.com/chin...-no-spark.html

TBog77 hasn't responded to the questions in my last post, hence the stalled thread...

 

Hey guys sorry i've been busy...We went and got a brand new battery...after charging it and everything we tested everything all over again and got the same results...which didn't make any sense to begin with...so my bro in law gave up and ordered a new stator and case...so we're waiting to get that in the mail...then we're gonna try the same tests all over again..