Kazuma Falcon 110 ignition wiring
 

Hi all,

I just picked up a Kazuma Falcon 110. The vin number has a 5 as the 10th digit, so I think I am dealing with a 2005 machine. The wiring is all messed up and I would like to try to get it running. I have looked for wiring diagrams, but I have not found one that has the colors of all the wires that mine has. This machine has lights and a horn as well as a LED panel to show what gear you are in.

The previous owner lost the key and took the ignition out, so I really need to know how to wire that up. I removed the cylinder from the ignition and am going to see if somewhere like Home Depot can just make a key to work. The problem is I had to disassemble the unit to get the cylinder out and now I'm not sure which way to put it back together. The way the cylinder fits I have two options that are 180 degrees apart. The wires coming out of the ignition are:
Red, Black, Black/White, Yellow, Yellow/white, and Green. Can anybody tell me which ones should have continuity when the switch is turned from off to on then on with lights? Also a full wiring diagram with instructions how to read it?
Thanks

Nik

I have never seen a 6 wire ignition switch.

Four of the colors seem to be pretty standard. The yellow and yellow white have me a bit confused:

1) Red: I'm betting this is fused 12 volts (12 volts direct from the battery through a fuse). Measure this with a meter. It should have 12 volts on it all the time relative to ground.

2) Green: Ground. Measure the resistance of this wire to engine ground. It should be zero ohms.

3) Black: Switched 12 volts. This should have 12 volts on it whenever the ignition switch is on.

4) Black/White: Kill switch. This wire should have zero ohms to ground when any kill switch is activated (like the handlebar kill switch, or a rear tether if you have one). The ignition switch normally is one of the kill switches too - this is what kills the engine when you turn the ignition switch "off"

Again, yellow and yellow/white are a mystery. Look all over your wiring harness. Where else do you see a yellow wire? Where else do you see a yell/white wire? What do they hook to? These are clues. Important: Only pay attention to colors in the main taped up wiring harness. Ignore the colors of short pigtail wires going to the components themselves. The idea is that a pink wire with white polkadots (for example) entering the taped up wiring harness will still be pink with white polkadots wherever it comes back out. By looking at the wire source and destination the wire function can be surmized, and the jigsaw like puzzle starts to come together.

Thanks for the reply. I'm just surprised that nobody has an accurate diagram for this ATV seeing as it has been around a while and Kazuma is one of the more popular Chinese ATV's

I'm thinking that the yellows must have something to do with the lights because on my 50cc Kazuma the key is one position for on and another for on with lights.
If I just wanted to hotwire it without using the ignition, then how would I go about doing that? I want to see if I can get this thing running first before I dump money into fixing it up the right way.

Like I said, it has a bunch of messed up wiring at the battery. It has the main black and red wires that obviously go to the battery, but then there are some other random red wires and one other one with what looks like it held one end of a fuse at some point. Might be the fused power wire to the ignition. Do those main wires basically go to the starter solenoid because it draws the most juice?

Thanks again
Nik

Wiring diagrams are often not available for a lot of chinese quads. I had to trace out my entire wire diagram myself (it is not a kazuma). Even when you do get a wire diagram they are often not current, and riddled with errors.

I was going to ask if your ignition switch had three positions, but it looks like you answered it. I was thinking that the three positions were off, on, and start - but on with lights make even more sense considering the wire colors. I'm guesstimating that your lights are AC powered direct off the stator. If so yellow would be AC from the stator, Yellow/White would be switch AC to the headlights.

All this is based on standard color codes. Most quads use one of a few standard color schemes, but this is no guarantee. If your going to start hooking stuff up to try it you *must* have a fuse in line with the battery feeding all 12 volts (red wires) stuff except the fat heavy wire to the solenoid (and on to the starter motor on the other side of the solenoid). 7 amps is the standard value.

Once you have the fuse in place I would try shorting the red and black wires, leave all the others open (disconnected). Try to start the quad.

If the quad doesn't start try jumping across the solenoid and see if it starts.

To kill the quad engine (should it start right up :)), use the handle bar kill switch. If that doesn't work short the green and Black/white wire together. *CAUTION* there is high voltage on the black white wire when the engine is running (or cranking). Mind you fingers when shorting it to ground.

Thanks again, Lynn. I put the ignition switch back together. In the off position there is continuity between black/white and ground. First position closes the red/black circuit and opens bl/wh to ground. Last position keeps red/black closed and also makes the circuit between yellow and yellow/white. Sounds like you were spot on! The previous owner melted the 6-pin connector when he pigtailed everything together, so I will have to hook it up with some wire nuts temporarily.
Will an automotive blade type fuse be OK for the fuse? How about 7.5A because I have some of those around.
I am going to have to take a look at the whole wiring setup when I get more time. It is in my shed right now with no room around it to work. Too much junk I need to get rid of.

Sounds like the switch is working exactly as it should. And it sounds like the wire colors are indeed standard. That makes things a little easier.

A blade type 7.5 amp fuse is perfect. A ten amp fuse is OK too. A 20 or 30 amp fuse is not OK. The idea is to make sure that a sustained (and errant) current load at or just below the rated fuse value will not damage/melt the wiring harness without blowing the fuse first.

Solenoid wiring
 

OK, I've been tinkering with the wiring. I know the solenoid has two main posts that connect to the battery and the starter motor. You can jump these to start the motor. But my solenoid (not stock I don't think) has two other smaller wires as well. I know that these are the wires that will make the coil inside energize and pull the contacts for the large posts together thus starting the motor. But what do I hook these up to?
I have a red/yellow wire that comes from the starter button that I think plays a role here, but which side do I hook it to? Also, I'm not sure if this red/yellow wire is carrying +12v or if it is ground. I took the handlebar switch apart and the on/off handlebar switch has two green and one black/white wire. Black/white I know is kill, one green comes in and the other green goes to the starter button. When contact is made on the starter button, it connects green from the switch with the red/yellow wire. This makes me think that the starter button is completing the circuit on the ground side, not the +12v side. Does the solenoid get one +12v and ground? And if so, then where do I get the +12v from? Help.

Thanks

There are two common methods for wiring up the starter solenoid in chinese quads:

Attachment 17136

Attachment 17137

Everything you described (right down to the same wire colors as my quad) suggests you have Plan A where the ground is applied to the solenoid actuating coil through the starter button. The other side of the solenoid actuating coil gets 12 volts through the brake switch, ignition switch and fuse. This safety interlock keeps the quad from starting unless the brakes are applied so it won't take off unexpectedly if it is in gear.

Verify the above by measuring the solenoid coil resistance to ground with the ignition off, It should be open, then when you push the starter button the resistance will drop to zero on one side of the solenoid coil, or 4-6 ohms for the other side (you're measuring ground through the resistance of the solenoid coil).

Thanks Lynn. I am in the process of reconnecting several things right now, so I don't know if I will be able to perform those tests as of yet.
I'm assuming that the polarity does matter for the coil, so I am going to try to bench test the coil by applying 12v across the two "trigger" connections. Will the coil only work one way? For instance, if I hook + to one side and - to the other and the two heavy posts shoe continuity, then can I assume this is the correct polarity? The solenoid won't work if it is connected backwards, right?

Solenoids will work wired either way. If you wire the coil up one way the north pole of the magnetic field produced by the actuating coil will be the one to suck down the steel plate. Wire it the other way and it's the south pole that does the trick. Think of an ordinary permanent bar magnet - you can pick up a piece of steel with either end. :)

When you're doing your experiments keep in mind that the solenoid is a short term operating device. When activated the internal coil is dissapating about 25-36 watts in heat so it will warm up quickly. Don't leave the solenoid closed (clicked in) for more than a minute at a time, and allow it to cool before repeating. You can tell if your overdoing it by feeling the solenoid case.

The solenoid seemed to work better with one polarity as opposed to the other, so that is the way I hooked it up. Got everything "done" last night but went to start it today and...nothing. Back to tracing everything to see what is wrong. the starter button was a little iffy, so maybe that is the open link.

If I need to replace the starter button with a momentary switch, then how heavy-duty does it need to be? You said the coil dissipates 25-36 watts so I am assuming I need a switch that will handle at least 3A. Probably 5A would be better. The starter button seemed to be a simple, heavy duty type switch with a large contacting area. Do I need something like that or will any 5A momentary switch be adequate?

Thanks for all your help.

You can use a meter to measure the resistance of the start button to see if it works. You can do this by measuring from from the starter solenoid actuating coil wires to ground if you want. This way you don't have to get at the switch pigtail wires if access is a problem. But keep in mind if you do this you are measuring both the switch and the interconnect wiring together. If it doesn't measure correctly then either one could be bad.

I would look for a 5 amp 100 volt switch. The biggest stress on the switch is when the starter button is released. The starter actuating coil in the solenoid has energy stored in the magnetic field it produces. When the current is interrupted (starter button released) the collapsing magnetic field generates whatever voltage is necessary to keep the solenoid coil current flowing until all that energy is dissipated. That energy is dissipated in a short spark across the switch contacts as it is released. This has a tendency to erode the switch contacts over time if it is not big enough.

The other part of the starter motor activation circuitry is the brake switch interlock. You've got to get 12 volts to one side of the solenoid actuating coil (the start button provides the ground to the other side of the solenoid actuating coil). That comes through the brake switch. So turn on the ignition, step on the brake and look at your brake light. Is it lit up? If not, then perhaps your brake switch is not working.

It was the starter button. I had a small momentary pushbutton that looks to be good for 5A (no ratings marked on it) so I wired that in and the starter turns fine. If it is not robust enough then I can easily replace it because I have pigtailed it to a different location aside from the handlebar switch.
Everything is now hooked up. Time to throw in a new spark plug and give her a try.

Spark Plug Questions:
1. My 50cc's plug died, so we threw in the NGK CR7HSA that was I was going to use for the 110. We tested the new plug and I saw that the spark looked a bit weak. It was surely sparking, but not bright, fat sparks. Is that normal? The quad ran perfectly after we changed the plug.

2. Is the NGK CR7HSA really a superior plug compared to the Autolite 4194? NGK is $4 and Autolite is $2. Not a big deal, but the previous plug did not last long in the 50cc. I just don't want to be spending twice the money for plugs all the time if I don't really have to.

3. Are CR7HSA and C7HSA the same plug except for the resistor? Cross reference table lists different Autolite equivalents, but I looked up the specs for the Autolite and 4194 apparently is a non-resistor plug? ??? Do I really need a resistor plug? Actually had the C7HSA in the 50cc before.

4. I end my rambling with a gripe. At local store NGK is $4, Autolite is $2. Online NGK is $1.63 and Autolite is $1.49. Why such a mark up locally?

Answer to #4 -- Don't got to Autozone for this particular NGK plug. For stuff like this I usually don't even bother checking prices between Advance, Autozone, Pep Boys, Napa etc. I just dropped into Autozone the other day and picked one up for $4. Called Napa and Advance and they each sell them for around $2. Shame on you, Autozone.

Brand new plug is in, starter button works but not firing up.
Checked and got an intermittent spark issue. Spark fires several times and then nothing. Try again and nothing...then a few sparks...then nothing. Maybe I'm imagining things, but it seems like there is a spark after I lay off the starter button.

Lynn -- I know you have tried to help diagnose this for others. I think I need to check the magneto voltages, but how do I do this. For instance, the red/black wire should have 40-80VAC right? So hook the meter to red/black and the other side to ???. Ground from the magneto? Just touch the engine block with the other probe?

I do have a Kazuma Meerkat 50cc that works fine, and I will check but I think they are similar years of manufacture. If it has a 5-pin CDI, then can I assume that it would work on the 110? How about the ignition coil? I figure with the spark plug not being the culprit the only things left are CDI, ignition coil or the magneto coils/flywheel. If I can swap the parts from the other machine, then it could save me some money not ordering extra parts I don't need.

(I hate people like me who keep updating replies without others responding)

Well, I tried the old remove the balck and white wire from the CDI trick. It seems to have worked and I now get a consistent spark. I will try to fire it up tomorrow.

Just so I don't forget, I did measure the voltages from the stator. 56v on balck/red and 0.14v on the trigger. Battery charge lead had about 5v and 3rd coil for lights had about 4.5v. I assume these are fine because at running speed those should go up to 11-13v.

I don't agree :). More information is always better.

Classic kill switch issues. This is progress...

Battery charge stuff has nothing to do with spark. It only has to do with keeping your battery from going dead. The best test is to measure the battery voltage while the quad is running at a medium engine speed with headlights off. You should see 13.5 to 14.5 volts right on the battery terminals. If you do, all is well. If you don't then more troubleshooting is required, though this is something that can be put off until your quad is running (but do keep a trickle charger on your battery so it is kept up to fully charged).

Now what???
 

Well, here comes more information for you, Lynn.

Tried this morning...nothing. Pulled the plug...intermittent spark again...then no spark. Switched CDI with other machine and no difference. Unscrewed wire to spark plug cap, applied PB, screwed back in and now appears to have a good consistent spark. Not super fat, but definitely more than my 50cc machine. I'm surprised that the 50 runs on the tiny sparks it has.

Anyway, I sprayed start fluid into the mouth of the carb several times and got nothing. One time got one little "pitter" out of it, but otherwise no fire. Checked intake valve for clearance. It had none, so I backed it out just a bit. Did not measure, but it now has slightest bare amount of play. Still nothing.

What's next? Check compression? Exhaust valve clearance? Timing? Get a new ignition coil? I'm stumped because if it is getting a seemingly decent spark and a straight shot of highly volatile fuel then I thought it would at least fire enough to burn through the start fluid.

Do I need gas in the bowl of the carb for things to work? I currently have no gas in there and the carb is not hooked to anything. I thought a straight shot of fluid into the carb would go right into the cylinder, but maybe not.

HELP....I'm going to start pulling my hair out soon.

No Compression
 

OK...my compression tester did not have a 10mm fitting so I put my thumb over the hole. I was able to hold it there without being forced off at all. I tried on my son's 50cc and my thumb came flying off. I guess this means I have no compression. Also, I checked the valve clearance on the exhaust side. When I unscrewed the cover there was about 2 tablespoons of oil that drained out. This leads me to believe that I need rings. Should I just get a new piston at the same time? It's only like another $10.

Before I order parts, is this the problem? Is it usually rings that go on these machines and not something with the valves?

Remember that the available spark energy is directly proportional with engine speed. Thus the spark need only be weak at cranking speeds. It has to fire only once, which increases the speed, which makes a hotter spark, which is more likely to fire again, increasing the engine speed further, etc.

Cranking speed is roughly 600 RPM, idle is about three times that speed.

people in this community act likeadults!!!
 

Man as frustrating as it was just too be. allowed to join...lol...this is one of the few sites where people ACTUALLY show respect n truly try to help each other. damn they wanted everything from me just to give you guys a compliment!! Seriously tho...I used just picked a lil 110 myself n may have some questions. sounds like I'm in the right spot. four strokes are generally easy to me but this is my 1st Chinese n haven't even messed around yet... someone actually dumped it n I can retrace in my mind(from the little effort they put in) what was going on now how non-mechanical they are. WE should all be grateful that we were born mechanically inclined!!! we're a rare breed!!!

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puchased 2 new chinese quads 1 ran the other wouldnt
 

I purchased 2 atv one started right out of the box the other didnt
finally switched the cdi from the running bike to the non running bike it fired right up
bought 2 new cdi box 5 pin Neither bike will run put the old one back on it runs fine
what am i missing here
got another from a different source that CDI doesnt start them either