1) Engine problems.. If your quad wont run..post in here.

Just brought home a 2006 Jialing Redcat MPX-70 70cc for my Son

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  #11  
Old 11-18-2012, 08:52 AM
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There was a small 4-5 inch crack on the rear fender, so I thought I would break out the new Plastic Welder I got from Harbor Freight and do some practice. Not the prettiest repair but very sturdy. I bought the Welding Kit to repair my plastic gas tank on my Porsche 928. I haven't done that repair yet since I am waiting on the Polyethylene welding rods from overseas. The black stuff is on the underside and not seen.

























 
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Old 11-18-2012, 01:07 PM
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Thats a really clean atv. I had a artic cat 90 utility and it sucked.
 
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Cody Hammons
Thats a really clean atv. I had a artic cat 90 utility and it sucked.
Thanks Cody. I had a lot of practice working on other Quads and ATV's. It was pretty decent when I got it, I just needed to make it safe for my 5 year old. Sure enough as soon as I got it all together, we were doing a few laps around our back yard when he went flying off it because he was going too fast and flipped it sideways. Scared the hell out of me and I could care less about the Quad. My boy was ok and the quad survived with just a few scratches. He was ready to get back on it again today, but I told him we'll take a few more days for "me" to recover.
 
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Old 11-18-2012, 11:11 PM
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MPDano,

Your plastic welding setup has me intrigued. I bought a Harbor Freight plastic welding setup several years back. It is quite different looking than yours. It had a separate low pressure regulator, and a fixed output air nozzle. It didn't work at all. I had adjustment on the air flow, but nothing else. I could never get to a stable median temperature between "doesn't melt" and ""totally burnt". I eventually gave up and used the air regulator for something else.

Would you recommend this plastic welder setup? Is there any indication of output air temperature?

I've been thinking of some alternatives too. In electronics hot air is used to unsolder and remove small surface mount parts off printed circuit assemblies. In this case case both the air temperature and the air flow rate are precisely regulated. I was also thinking of that technology for my next pass at plastic welding. It is still a bit pricier for sure (appox $150), but it is getting into the realm of things.

I enjoyed all your pictures. I still can't get over how good the quad looks after all this time.
 
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by LynnEdwards
MPDano,

Your plastic welding setup has me intrigued. I bought a Harbor Freight plastic welding setup several years back. It is quite different looking than yours. It had a separate low pressure regulator, and a fixed output air nozzle. It didn't work at all. I had adjustment on the air flow, but nothing else. I could never get to a stable median temperature between "doesn't melt" and ""totally burnt". I eventually gave up and used the air regulator for something else.

Would you recommend this plastic welder setup? Is there any indication of output air temperature?

I've been thinking of some alternatives too. In electronics hot air is used to unsolder and remove small surface mount parts off printed circuit assemblies. In this case case both the air temperature and the air flow rate are precisely regulated. I was also thinking of that technology for my next pass at plastic welding. It is still a bit pricier for sure (appox $150), but it is getting into the realm of things.

I enjoyed all your pictures. I still can't get over how good the quad looks after all this time.
Hi Lynn,

It's my first Plastic Welder after looking at a bunch of Youtube videos. I decided on this one. It was a potentiometer on it with numbers. The numbers are supposed to equate to a temp that is posted in the included instructions. I used #3 as it is supposed to be 270-280 degrees I believe. I printed the chart of temps at which material melts at what point. That black materiel I used came from the other $14 kit which had some plastic welding rods included. Not even sure what material it was, but some is better than none and it seems to blend ok. Even after my son ate dirt, the fender survived, so it's solid. Hope this info helps.

Here are the two kits I bought:

http://www.harborfreight.com/welding...ent-96712.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/welding...ron-67102.html
 
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Old 11-23-2012, 10:20 PM
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Installed the Carb and exhaust to give it a test start. Made sure all fluid was topped off. Installed a make-shift fuel source can gave it a start. Nada, just spins and not even a sputter. Pulled the plug and grounded it and got mega spark, so that is not my issue. Fuel getting in and I even put a little down the spark plug hole and nothing.

I have a feeling I have low compression. I need to buy an adapter for my normal spark plug compression tester. Then I can verify. Or? Any other suggestions?
 
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:19 AM
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Ok, now it's morning and got some light. It looks like there is a switch on the rear brake handlebar lever. Depressing still makes no change. Hmmm
 
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:23 AM
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Sorry guys, last two posts for some reason I posted in the wrong topic. Weird.
 
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Old 02-05-2014, 07:53 AM
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Guys,

Need a clutch now. Anyone know where to get the assembly and part number?

Thanks in advance!
 
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Old 04-30-2014, 07:40 AM
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Sorry for the broken image links, but if I could edit the posts, I could fix that.

Anyways, my sons needs a new fuel cap. Where is the safest place to buy one? It's a special size as none of my other ATV caps fit.

Thanks,
Leo
 


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