Hello all. Excellent website. I'm new here and I just purchased a 2000 polaris 500. I got it at an excellent price from my buddy so I couldn't pass it up. The last time we went riding together he sank it in a small creek. We were able to get it back to the house still running but missfireing. ever since it was shut down I haven't been able to get it to run. Im pretty sure it is the coil pack. The grey and black striped wire does get power when cranking but the coil does not fire. Am I in the right area? Also since I stripped down all the plastic I decided to do some routine maintence. What are some reasonable places or sites to get parts? Aftermarket and OEM. I took off the dustcover to check my drive belt. Everything seems good but it needs a gasket around the outside of the box. To replace the belt I assume the clutch must be removed, so do I need a puller and where can I buy one reasonably, or can it be done without? Also the Speedometer cable is broke(Stopped on 666), the front right boot has a small hole. Basicly I would appreciate any recomendations or direction steering you can give me being a virgin polaris owner. I live near a Polaris dealer but he has a monopoly here in a small town. His prices are very high and the wait is rediculas. Any tip or tricks would be most excellent. Thank you.

 

Before you try anything else, on why it doesn't run good, check for moisture in the spark plug boot.
Helping to figure out why it doesn't run right would be more info on how deep of water it was in, and for how long.

There is no puller needed for belt removal. The rear pulley can be widened up enough by twisting the 2 halves against each other, while trying to pull them apart. With a little effort, you will be able to get the belt low enough in the rear pulley to be able to roll it off the front. If that frustrates you, remove the bolt from the center of the rear pulley, and the whole pulley & belt should come off with a strong tug. Remember to grease the splines lightly before you re-assemble.

Speedo cable - I think you will have to go Polaris

Boot & other parts, try Rockymountainatv.com, partsland.com, or even hpd-inc.com.

If you need help replacing the boot, PM me and I can get you full instructions.

Farmr

 

Also the Speedometer cable is broke(Stopped on 666),

Fix it and ride it up and down the drive to get it to change, and then SELL IT! LOL! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

Thank you Farmr 123. Roger on the belt replacement. Tried it right away, and no problem. Any suggestions on the rear tranny/diff fluid? Any good suitable subs or should I stick to Polaris? Any trick's with the CV boot? I haven't messed with it yet. I have worked on plenty cars. No big deal but do I have any hidden gremlins with this ATV? Thanks

 

nothing but some numbers. Soon there will be a 1 in front of them all. Ready to ride!

 

Bryan:
The Polaris tranny fluid contains Moly (either Molysulfide or Molydysulfide, can't remember for sure). Anyway, the Moly additive will add greatly to the life of the chain in the transmission. The Polaris transmission contains both gears, and a chain, and normal gear lube doesn't contain the additive for the chain. The few $$ for the Polaris stuff is well spent in increased chain life. I have seen Sportsmans with 15,000 miles, that never had the tranny apart, that used the Polaris stuff.

As for the CV boot, the easiest way to service it is to pop the ball joint off the bottom of the strut (after removing the wheel, brake disk, and anything else in the way). Then, with a soft-face hammer, just hit the bottom of the strut to pop the axle out of the joint. The FRONT CV joints are held in place by a spring-loaded clip. Enough pressure will just pop the joint off the end of the axle. Then you can replace the boot, slide the axle back into the joint, and re-clamp. Double check, to be sure that the spring clip locks onto the axle. If the joint is contaminated, you will need to remove the whole joint. This is done by removing the end cap off the hub, and removing the axle nut. Remove the guts of the hub (being sure to note how everything fits together) and pull the axle stub & CV joint out the back of the strut. Put it back the way it was, noting that the 3 little tabs of the armature plate match the 3 little notches in the roller cage. Tighten the nut to 100 inch pounds, spin the hub to set the bearings some, and re torque to 100. If the cotter pin doesn't line up, tighten until it does, not to exceed 130 inch pounds.

The REAR CV joints are held to the axle by a snap-ring. These can only be removed by sliding the boot away from the joint, and finding the 2 little tabs at the end of the ring. There will be a little recess in the joint housing where you will find them. The axle should be tapered enough that it goes together without prying the ends of the snap ring apart.

Farmr

 

Oh, and for the hub, either use the Polaris hub fluid, or else use SYNTHETIC type F ATF. Mobil 1 is the most common.

Farmr