i just bought a used mbrp full race exhaust and a KN filter

and i know im going to need to rejet, but i dont have a great deal of engine tuning under my belt....

is rejetting a hard thing to do? if not and its somthing i should try doing myself, can anyone reccomend a starting needle setting, and airscrew mixture settings for stock ds with mbrp and filter?

any help is appreciated

 

it should run on a 170-180 main jet

 

no not hard at all I found 172.5 to works best, air box lid on. the only problem is getting the carb bowl screws of there on tighter than hell. 2 to 3 turns out on air screw. be carfull tighting the carb to intake manifold I over tighted mine and put a crack in it. ordred a new one $25

 

hey sam i saw ur pics, and what kidn of paint did u use on ur engine block? has it stayed on? (no chipping/fading?)

and also how did u mod ur pipe with supertrapp discs? (i like that idea...) i jsut ordered a new mbrp exhaust, but i ride in the dunes and they have a tendancy to check most pipes that DONT use discs..

 

R00st, I remember you saying about 3 or 4 months ago that you hated DS's and that the suspension sucked compared to the new KFX/Z400...after I told you about the one I bought. You were like...they are powerful but they handle like crap and the suspension sucks.


Now you bought one...and you love it.

Drop to your knees and say yer sorry son.

 

the DS i rode did suck.....lol

no questions about it....it was in good shape...but maybe the shocks needed to be rebuilt, that or the preload was set for a dumptruck....

(it actually had works front shocks on it...)

and the handling was quite bumpy

but mine handles like a dream compared to that one...im still glad i bought it

*cries and asks for forgiveness* [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

You are forgiven my son.

 

I use a DeWalt drill\driver with the ratcheting clutch to remove the float bowl screws with ease, start out with light setting and keep turning the clutch to stiffer setting until it breaks loose....

 

On my first DS, I spent about an hour working at them & finally got them. On my second DS, I spent five minutes and drilled the heads off. It's amazing how easily the remaining screw comes off when there is no tension. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]

 

Even if you don't NEED to rejet, I'd suggest getting the screws off of the bowl of the carburetor anyhow. Just wait till you have some spare time & then do it (you know, on a week day between riding trips!) get the (3) 4x10mm and (1) 4x12mm allen head stainless steel screws and also replace the two on top of the carburetor with new stainless screws. By replacing those screws, you enable yourself to rejet either jet in about five minutes. That makes rejetting on the spot easy enough you may actually do it if you need to.

Once you get this done just think of this: if you ever go riding with a buddy who has a Raptor, and say there was a situation where you both needed to rejet for the location - you'll be done in five minutes while he is going to take another 30 minutes plus. That should put a smile on the face of any DS owner!