has anyone turned there front wheels around on there 300ex/400ex/250r? I'm planning on doing this to mine. I know the holes aren't taperd but alot have people have been doing this and haven't had in problems. if you've done it tell me what you think. I'm thinking about puttin in another crossover ring in my works shocks since there will more leverage with the wheels turned around.anybody know how much they cost???? I guess I gotta buy them from works. well guys if you know anything about what I have said let me know!!! thanks ya'll

 

I guess the only thing I would be worried about is the extra stress on the front wheel-bearings. With the wheel centered on the wheel-bearing, most of the force is straight-down on the spindle and bearings. If you increase the offset, the force would be off the centerline of the bearing, applying torque to the spindle and bearings.

This might not be significant, though, since high-offset rims on cars doesn't seem to shorten the life of the bearings a noticeable amount. Something to keep in mind, though. Good luck.

 

i did this for just a real short ride because i wanted to see if it would handle better. the only thing i was afraid of was the nuts coming loose or the bolts bending in the gap where the rims are tapered. if you try this take it easy and carry a socket with you in case they come loose. i would also recommend getting some of those flanged nuts or something that wont come loose.

i ride a 2000 honda 400EX with maier purple plastic, purple renthal bars, black seat cover,motion pro twist throttle, prm full body skid plate, prm swing arm skid plate, prm front bumper, 22 inch blackwaters on rear, and in the mail are graydon proline aluminum nerf bars and 20 inch turf tamers. dont make fun of the color until after you have seen it. go to www.angelfire.com/stars/stuff4 click ATV PICTURES then click HONDA ATV PICTURES.

 

I did this to my 300ex and it works well. Alot better then those junky wheel spacers. when I put my wheel on I put 2 nuts on (the taper side facing towards the wheel) too center the wheel on the studs. Then I put the other 2 nuts on with the flat side facing the wheel using a #2 grade (soft) washer between the wheel and nut and tighten. then removed the first 2 and installed them the same as the second 2. I never had the wheel move on me. If you just use the taper side you run the risk of the steel insert woking its way loose from the aluminum rim since its not being pinched tight.

I didnt notice much if any change in shock performance (stock shocks) but it was more stable. I assume you know about the need to relocate the tire stem to the other side of the rim also. The only draw back to the mod is that the calipers are a bit more exposed to possible damage.

 

Do it! It helps alot, and its cheaper than buying Douglas offset dished wheels or extended A arms. All you have to do is put your valve stem in backwards(valve going inside the rim) and drill a hole on the other side to put a new stem on the other side. You can swith it back and forth this way whenever you want. Have Fun!!

 

hey......don't the holes for the wheel nuts have steel sleaves in them....you could try punching them out and putting them in backwards? (never tried it myself though)....maybe make the sleave fit by tapering the hole on the inside of the rim a bit (doesn't matter if you don't like it....tap the sleaves out again and put it back to standard, don't think it will affect the strength of the rim much)..that way you won't have to worry about the rims loosening the wheel nuts
.....just a thought...good luck

 

I'm gonna do it when I get two more valve stems...... if any body has any more suggestions about putting the nuts on please let me know..... I'm thinking about doing what GJ said.... sounds like it'll work.....sounds like a pretty good mod for only two dollars....ok guys let me know what you think..later

 

Turning your wheels backwards leaves your discs and calipers exposed for possible damage if you hit anything. Wheel spacers work better if it's only an inch to inch and a half. Any wider and +2" and up A-arms are the proper way to go. I used wheel spacers made of polyurethene 1-1/2" wide (home made) for flattracking once, they worked well.

jason
96 350XX
#94 MHSC
#502 Soil Series

 

I don't think its gonna be a problem cause this weekend I rode with 2 guys who both did it and they were flat out haulin @$$ through pretty tight trails and hitting some pretty good jumps and new had any problems...if they didn't mess up their calipers I know I won't... ok later

 

I have a 400EX in my garage that has had the fronts turned around for about a year. Observations:

Better cornering performance.

A little funkyness in the steering.

Watch out for that tree! Seriously, the fronts tend to grab stuff alongside the trail more, ruts, trees, etc...

Things we have damaged:

Tie rods....
Flattened one upper control arm landing big air. This machine routinely sees big air jumps such as the ones pictured in my link below. Upon landing it generally bends tie rods and has smashed one upper control arm so far.

Other than that, you will need to relocate the valve stem or use a special "shorty" valve stem. I would not worry as much about wheel bearings, calipers, rotors as I would about control arms, tie rods, and clipping trees .