RW cam specs are as follows:
A1/A2 Cams:
Intake lift .433 in. duration 267 degrees.
Exhaust lift .406 in. duration 278 degrees.

Race Cams:
Lift .425 in. duration 260 degrees.
(Intake & exhaust)

I have the A1/A2 combo, thinking about race cams, has anybody tried a race cam in place of the A1, while still maintaining the A2 intake cam? The duration of the A2 is almost the same as the race profile, with a bit more lift. Seems this would do well on the top....I can exchange a stock cam core (I still got 'em) and only have to buy one cam instead of a pair....and if I don't like it I can always put the A1 back in....

 

I was not aware until I got the new RWR price list that came with my shims and dsbombs sprocket that the a1/a2 specs were at .050" lift!!!!!

These should be more radical and topend oriented than the RACE or 109s due to duration alone!!! I would think these would work best in a full race setup (head porting, valves, BIG carb) or a big bore engine (at least 720cc), with a high flow EXHAUST!!!!

I think youre running too high oriented cams with too low oriented exhaust!!!

I would love to get my old WB E-Series with 18 disks (dsbomb owns it now) and bring it with us for you to try on the trip. Its not the highest flowing pipe on the market but you would definately see a BIG improvement on the top!!!!

 

I don't know what the lift and duration is but the Ron Wood Race 7 cams seem to have made my buddy's DS fall on its face! He is only running 11:1 compression on a stock bore and he weighs about 250#. With him on it trying to shoot the hill . . . let me say it just didn't go!

 

DuneMe, i just looked them up on my new parts list from RWR. They have dropped the sports and offer these 3 cams.

a1 intake--------.433" 267* @ .050
a2 exhaust-----.406" 278* @.050
Wood 9----------.425" 260* @ .050
Wood 7----------.450" 294* @ .050

I don't know why it fell on its face. It should run GREAT!!!!!!!! Between 10,000 and 12,000 rpms that is.

I emailed MrHp after i ordered the Web 110s (.395/256*) asking if i should return them before i installed them and get some 109s. He told me I would like the 110s and that most people go overboard and get too much cams for the rest of the engine. He was right, they breathe much better, but also raised my peak by 1,000 rpms and I am still running my stock carb!!

In my opinion, TUNING goes way farther than just the carburetor. Its getting components that flow and work in sync so there are no bottlenecks that restrict flow and no gaping holes that reduce velocity. The only thing you can't overdo is compression as long as the head gasket can stand it!!

Valve overlap due to long duration cams destroys compression until rpms hit the number that the cams were designed to work at. Then if you have a radical cam/s you need the rest of the intake and exhaust systems to be able to keep up.

Stock DSs peak at 6400 rpms. With my new carb, minor head porting, cams, piston, and RWR exhaust i should peak around 7500 rpms. The open RWR peaks between 7,000-9,000. Not sure with the disks. But if my exhaust signs off below 6500-7000 then i've wasted a lot of time and money!!

 

Thanks "D"

I will pass on the info to my buddy.

Anyone looking for a set of RWR 7 cams? Hopefully Ron Wood stands behind their suggestion and exchanges them out for my buddy at no charge.

 

yeah i feel sorry for your friend that was sad the way his ran.

 

The race 7s have a dead spot between 4000 to 6000rpm. From there up to 10,000 they make power. The TM45 does not like these cams when you are running gas. The dead spot is were they just go rich. And you can not hardly get it out. I think this is some of the crazy over lap you are talking about.

J Ross

 

OK guys I'm dunme's friend he was talking about. Nothing is more discouraging then spending all that cash with RW and take it up to a great event and run slower than I did before. Don't misunderstand me, I am not bashing RW, I just hope these are some growing pains I have to go through to get this think to run right.

I have to give Jeff a big thanks for helping me take a look at this thing and utilizing his trailer and tools. We looked at the timimng, and valve clearences and the timming was right on and the clearnences were off about 2 thousandths. My air flow was good ( I had no obstructions and my jetting seemed to be on by the time I left.

Before I went up I did have it dynoed and the hp came in at 38hp, which was much lower than I expected, but the guy reassured me it was properly jetted. He put in a 96 needle on the five clip and a 132.5 jet. I thought that was way lean, but he was confident in his work. When getting their I notice low power and heating problems so by the time I had left I had my needle in the middle position and running a 145 main jet and it was still running hot. I decided to try to some race gas (50/50) and the fan didn't kick on anymore, but the red idiot light decided to come on and stay on.

I have never experienced my fan coming on and staying on so long after a couple of minutes of riding before the mods. I normally ride in shorts and have never felt heat come off the motor like I did during this trip. I'm not sure if this is normal, but I wouldn't think so.

It sounds like I need to go with a less agressive cam with my other mods. I hope that is the remedy to my problem. Duneme and I were just going to tear into the thing to see if anything was abnormal, but I will be calling RW before I do so to see what they say.

Frustrating, but hopefully worth it.

 

Okay, Okay DCRyder, I'll get a new dam pipe for christ's sake!
Now understand I got the Yoshi for several reasons, the main one being durability - all stainless. there are no stainless megaphones out there, I will not give up a stainless headpipe period, but I'm willing to put up with a ceramic tail as long as the muffler is aluminum so my roost doesn't chip it to hell like my RW exhaust! So that only leaves one choice - Graydon slip-on.

Now I've always known a megaphone is the king, but I saw the dyno shootouts on both the raptor and the 400ex and they both showed the Yoshi having the smoothest hp curve in the world, with peak #'s an significant amount different from the peak winner. But I'll buy into my cams needing a better top end pipe and take the plunge on yet a 3rd system!!


Now back to cam talk - do you guys think the duration of my exhaust cam is doing more for my top end than the lift of a Wood9?

 

HaHaHa, geez i'm only trying to help!!! LOL

I too studied the Raptor pipe shootout when trying to decide on a pipe. From my experience the Raptor is a very torquey bike on the bottom but mellow on the top, more power than a 400ex for sure but with the same personality. I think a midrange pipe suits them well with stock cams. On the other hand the DS is fairly sluggish on the bottom and loves to rev.

Don't get me wrong, i agree that the Yoshi is the best looking, and most durable pipe available. But I think it lacks the flow to be a drag racing contender. Which seems to be what you're looking for now.

One other observation on the Raptor shootout. Did you notice that Yoshi was the only one that seemed to research AIRBOX MODS!!!! Everyone else removed snorkels and lid, Yoshi drilled two 1-3/4" holes!!! Wonder if this had any affect on the DYNO RESULTS?!?!?!?!