i just bought a used 2001 ds 650, there were a few things wrong with it so i wanted to get it fixed asap to ride it,i changed the oil today and wasnt really sure if i did it right, from what ive read on this board i think i might have done ok, i removed the drain plug on the bottom of the engine and some nasty looking burned up substance flowed out ,then i removed the oil filter cover , oil spilled everywhere,so i changed the filter and replaced the o ring on the filter cover. thinking i should pour all 3.3 quarts into the oil resevoir , i quickly found out that it wouldnt all fit, so i then located 2 large flat head screw caps on the right side of the engine , so i poured some oil in there as well , i then started the atv and it seemed to be ok , i did have a little much in the oil tank so i drained some till it read ok on the dip stick, so any help on this whole oil changing procedure would be appreciated.


next,i noticed a terrible scraping noise near my chain , and found out that my chain roller is gone. i went ahead and ordered the stock replacement roller , which now i think i prolly shouldnt have, anyway,that part wont even be in for a week or so, and i want to ride my atv now, i was wondering if any chain roller would work so i could ride asap? im thinking that as long as it is the same , or close to the same size as the original , i could use any roller? what does anyone think about this?

also just in case anyone is interested, the bombardier dealer here in corpus christi texas has great discounts on 2003 models, i saw a 2003 ds 650 for 4,999.00 today when i went to get my parts, and a 2003 baja for 5,699.00, said they wanted to get them moving !! so if anyone near this area is lookijng for a hell of a deal on a new atv, that is the cheapest price i had ever heard for a brand new atv !!!

last but not least just thought i would le tyou know what kinda deal i got on mine, i was searching through a local ad -classifieds listings paper (thrifty nickel ), and found this guy selling a 2001 ds 650 he wanted to get rid of it so he could buy a street bike , i ended up picking this atv up for 2900.00. i feel i got a reallyu good deal and was very happy, well thanks for reading my post and please reply if ytou have any input to my post, thanks , mike

 

On the oil change you didn't remove all of thebad oil. You stll have oil in the oil tank. There is a drain plug on the bottom of the oil tank that needs to also be removed when doing an oil change.

As far as the chain roller. Adjust your chain so that when you compress the rear of the bike the chain has no slack in it. Not tight...but no slack. On mine with my weight that means that when im not on the quad my chain has a little slack in it. not much but some. To lose a chain is what takes out the roller. Mine is an 01 with original roller [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

nice deal on your quad. did you get the title?

 

I just notice that I forgot to say...Welcome to the forum!!! you found the right place thats for sure.

 

so are those large flat head screw caps on the right side of the engine the right place to fill the engine oil? also i tried to loosen the square plug thing on the bottom of the oil canister and that sucker is froze up , i guess i need to spray something on it.


another thing is , i dont know how to tighten the chain , i have noticed that mine is pretty loose.

i did go to the local kawasaki dealer today and got an aftermarket roller for my chain, works really well.

i noticed today that my red light came on,i have plenty of fresh oil , and im starting to wonder if my electric fan is functioning properly, i havent seen or heard it turn on one time yet, is there any fuses or anything i can check or mess with to see why its not working?

and yes i did recieve a clear texas title with this atv

 

ekim bad news oil does not go in too the caps, only in too the oil tank. You have put oil in too your mag wich does not like oil.

Written by okbyethen (and Scoobydfw)

Make sure you at least read this procedure in the owners manual. DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OIL. You will need the new filter, 4 quarts of oil, although only a part of the fourth will be used. You will need the allen wrench in the tool kit, a huge flathead screwdriver, a drain pan, and a 17mm deep (or an extension) socket for the drain plug.

The oil filter may not be available from Bombardier. An oil filter that I bought at a BMW motorcycle dealership worked perfectly on the DS650. It was identical - they both said champion on it. I would buy a BMW oil filter if you don't have a bombarier one.

First step - RIDE! Get the oil warmed up and thin so it will drain better. When you drain the oil, don't try to loosen the drain plug on the oil reservoir to drain the oil in it. Instead, loosen the clamp on the oil hose (the big braided one) where it feeds into the crankcase and pull the hose off to drain the oil in the reservoir. Only about 2/3 of the oil in the system will be drained so far. The oil comes out in a hurry! Put an old newspaper down under the hose before you pull it off. You will spill oil all over the place when you disconnect the hose. Make sure you have the hose pointed into your oil drain pan. I used my compresser to blow through the dipstick area and drain extra oil out the hose. Re-install the hose after draining.

Then you move to the drain plug underneath the ATV. Be careful loosening the drain plug. It is so tight you could easily strip the head of the plug. Keep the socket flush - it may try to slip off at an angle when trying to loosen it. An additional quart or so of oil will drain from the crankcase. The new oil filter is supposed to come with a new washer for the drain plug. (Mine did not)

There may be metal dust/filings on the drain plug's magnet. Clean this stuff off completely. (so you can watch for more filings on the next oil change). I found a shop magnet that was stronger than the drain plug magnet. The filings jump to the strongest magnet. When it is clean, put it back on the bike. Don't torque the drain plug very much or you will easily strip the threads on the aluminum crankcase since the plug is steel.

Next, go ahead and put in like three quarts of oil. Go ahead and put the dipstick on also. Now the oil filter needs replacing. When you remove the two HEX bolts, there may be some oil spilling onto the crankcase. The old oil filter sticks. You wont hurt anything by using pliers to give it a tug out (after all you will throw it away). Don't install the new filter yet, you need to bleed the system first! The service manual says to remove one spark plug.(I did not) The service manual also says run your motor for a FEW MINUTES to see if the oil light goes off. DO NOT DO THIS!!! If the oil does not get bled through the system, you will be running the DS WITH NO OIL THAT WHOLE TIME #@$#@!

You must loosen the oil bleeding screw (very loose). This is insane tight. I couldn't get the oil bleeding screw loose. I bent a brand new screwdriver trying to loosen it and the screw itself started to get damaged. I took a huge screwdriver and ground the tip to be fatter and bigger to fit the huge Flathead screw. Then I drilled a whole through the handle of the screwdriver I had just ground to put a small bar through it for leverage. Then I pushed in HARD toward the bike with my knee and turned it to break it loose. (Threads are normal: counter-clockwise to loosen)

Next, be sure that the engine kill switch is OFF and press the start button to turn the crank until oil starts to come out into the filter chamber. I tightened the bleeding screw as tight as I could get it with a normal screwdriver. I am hoping that it was way too tight from the factory. The new oil filter may come with an O-ring gasket for the oil filter cover.(Mine did not) Replace the gasket and install the oil filter and cover. Do not damage the wires that are crammed in there next to the cover.

You need to start the engine to circulate the oil to get an accurate reading of the oil level. The oil light should go off in a few seconds. I added a bit more to get it right on the mark. Now it is time to ride hard and thoroughly test the new oil! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

there is a fuse under your seat for the fan. it's a regular automotive fuse and i think it is a 15amp. there is one on each side right beside the airbox lid. they are in a sealed holder. the one on the right side of the quad if you are setting on it is for the fan.

 

Do what BillDS650 wrote for the oil change - glad I read that a while back. For the roller get a skateboard wheel and 4 bearings- cheap and much better that stock. The stocker will always shred eventually.