2004 Grizzly HP?
#1
Does anyone know how the HP output on a stock Grizzly? I'm getting mine today. Went to buy one yesterday and someone beat me there. So i had to get one in a box. Had to wait for them to assemble and service it this morning. " Realtree hardwoods" ENJOY!!!!!
#5
Hi Andy Bassham,
I'm going to purchase either a 2004 or 2005 Grizzly LE next year and I have a question. What are some of the advantages of removing the sway bar. Is there a noticable difference on hills, rock climbs, hard packed terrain, etc, etc..
Thanks,
IronBear..[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
I'm going to purchase either a 2004 or 2005 Grizzly LE next year and I have a question. What are some of the advantages of removing the sway bar. Is there a noticable difference on hills, rock climbs, hard packed terrain, etc, etc..
Thanks,
IronBear..[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
#6
I see you directed your question to Andy but while you are waiting for his reply I’ll give you some feedback from what I’ve personally experienced.
The biggest positive advantage of removing the sway bar is the improved handling over irregular terrain, such as rocky sections or non-perpendicular logs. Without the sway bar each rear wheel is free to use all available shock travel without affecting the other wheel, which also translates into a slightly more comfortable ride. This also keeps both rear tires planted better, providing better traction. It also feels more comfortable in off camber situations too.
The biggest negative situation is the effect it has on high speed handling (sloppier in fast turns) and it makes power sliding more difficult (but not impossible). When cornering hard and sliding I have lifted the inside front wheel where I didn’t before when the sway bar was on. In spite of this handling change I found that I could push the Grizzly just as fast as before on the trails when I wanted to.
Note however about the same time I took my sway bar off I also added ITP C-Series aluminum wheels (with either 27” 589s or 25” ATR Holeshots depending on the riding situation). While removing the sway bar has a negative effect on high speed handling, the C-Series wheels improves upon it because it increases the track width by nearly 4” (this plays a major part in the better off-camber handling characteristics)…
The biggest positive advantage of removing the sway bar is the improved handling over irregular terrain, such as rocky sections or non-perpendicular logs. Without the sway bar each rear wheel is free to use all available shock travel without affecting the other wheel, which also translates into a slightly more comfortable ride. This also keeps both rear tires planted better, providing better traction. It also feels more comfortable in off camber situations too.
The biggest negative situation is the effect it has on high speed handling (sloppier in fast turns) and it makes power sliding more difficult (but not impossible). When cornering hard and sliding I have lifted the inside front wheel where I didn’t before when the sway bar was on. In spite of this handling change I found that I could push the Grizzly just as fast as before on the trails when I wanted to.
Note however about the same time I took my sway bar off I also added ITP C-Series aluminum wheels (with either 27” 589s or 25” ATR Holeshots depending on the riding situation). While removing the sway bar has a negative effect on high speed handling, the C-Series wheels improves upon it because it increases the track width by nearly 4” (this plays a major part in the better off-camber handling characteristics)…
#7
ARTICULATION That's what the rock crawlers call it. The ability to fully extend the suspension while keeping all 4 wheels on the ground.
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#8
Myself, I like it better without it. Right now, I have it on though. My yahoo pictures has some old pics I took that kind of show the difference with and without. It would have been better if I had left the same tires on for each set, but I did it on different days. Still, you can see that the bar really limits the articulation.
With it on, the bike won't squat on takeoff, and will wheelie a lot easier. This isn't too important, but there it is just in case. On hard corners with the bar on, you will feel your inside tires come off the ground where as it will squat more to the outside with the bar on (body roll I guess). Body roll on it isn't bad enough without the bar for me to really care. Only way I really notice it is if I drive it one way or the other for a long time and then change it.
With the bar on in uneven stuff, its just like driving a solid axle quad. Get one tire on a rock or log and the opposite tire is going to be off the ground. With the bar off, there is a better chance you will have all of them on the ground. Much better for rock crawling without the bar.
Only real thing I've noticed is that the rear end will squat down on you if say, you are coming out of a steep ditch or something at an angle and all of the weight is forced down on one rear tire. It kind of makes the front end feel a little light. The ride may be better without the bar, but not enough to notice.
Mainly, all that you get out of it is better articulation (which is what the IRS is for in the first place). I haven't found any downside mechanically to removing it. It doesn't mess up anything.
Easy part is that its only 6 bolts to take it off or put it back on, and can be done inside of 20 minutes with ease. Most of the time is spent taking the wheels off. After that, you just need a 10mm socket to take off the clamps where it attaches to the frame, then two 14mm wrenches to take off the bolts that attach to the A-arms. Easy. I've taken mine off and put it back on about 4 times in the last couple years. If I'm doing a lot of trail riding and stuff, I have it off. If I'm in the mood to pop wheelies and powerslide, I put it back on.
With it on, the bike won't squat on takeoff, and will wheelie a lot easier. This isn't too important, but there it is just in case. On hard corners with the bar on, you will feel your inside tires come off the ground where as it will squat more to the outside with the bar on (body roll I guess). Body roll on it isn't bad enough without the bar for me to really care. Only way I really notice it is if I drive it one way or the other for a long time and then change it.
With the bar on in uneven stuff, its just like driving a solid axle quad. Get one tire on a rock or log and the opposite tire is going to be off the ground. With the bar off, there is a better chance you will have all of them on the ground. Much better for rock crawling without the bar.
Only real thing I've noticed is that the rear end will squat down on you if say, you are coming out of a steep ditch or something at an angle and all of the weight is forced down on one rear tire. It kind of makes the front end feel a little light. The ride may be better without the bar, but not enough to notice.
Mainly, all that you get out of it is better articulation (which is what the IRS is for in the first place). I haven't found any downside mechanically to removing it. It doesn't mess up anything.
Easy part is that its only 6 bolts to take it off or put it back on, and can be done inside of 20 minutes with ease. Most of the time is spent taking the wheels off. After that, you just need a 10mm socket to take off the clamps where it attaches to the frame, then two 14mm wrenches to take off the bolts that attach to the A-arms. Easy. I've taken mine off and put it back on about 4 times in the last couple years. If I'm doing a lot of trail riding and stuff, I have it off. If I'm in the mood to pop wheelies and powerslide, I put it back on.
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