where are some dyno charts that have some of the milder woods/web cams installed?

i need to see both the lowend and topend as compared to stock cams.

trying to decide what cams to try with turbo and if the smaller duration cams are worth it or not. want to not have as much drop in power above stock peak power around 6500RPM, but still maintain lowend.

the cam specs have been posted for the common woods and web cams but the cam timing between the intake and exhaust is not specified - lobe center, advance, overlap, etc???

has anyone compared the results of retarding the stock intake cam either 1/2 tooth or 1 tooth to installing sport cams?

 

Scooby, you will probably just have to contact Web and RW's for the specs. I havent dynoed any sport cams.

I think DuneDevil dyno a set of Pami sport cams in his bike. He might have a dyno sheet from them.

J Ross

 

does anyone know how deep the valve cutouts need to be with web .425" cams? on the woods piston for example, do the cutouts go below the deck level? would a stock flattop piston have enough piston to valve clearance?

 

Scooby,

I have the CP 11.5:1 piston and the valve cut-outs do go below the top of the piston. I dunno if the stk piston will clear the .425's. I do know that my stk valves touched the top of the stk piston. Might have been from valve float during dyno(dyno operator ran my totally stk motor to 9800! I told them to go no higher than 8500).

 

Scooby I have run the web 109/110 split on a stock piston with no problems at all, plenty of 9000rpm half mi oval track laps. The key is to have good springs, most valves hit because of valve float. If your running 20lbs boost (example) I would add 20lbs of seat pressure to the springs. If it's falling off at high rpm stronger springs may liven up your top end without changing cams at all.



MrHorsepower

 

i have a JE 8:1 piston with a .120" circular dish cutout of it. you can see the partial "remains" of the valve cutouts that were there before they machined the dish. hopefully i'm safe with the .425" cams. otherwise i'd have to machine the cutouts a little deeper. i have PAMI valve springs. they were good to well over 11,000RPM with stock cams. still want to have the valve train protected to 11,000RPM. would valve spring kit VC-B03 from web be needed, or would the PAMI springs be good enough to 11,000RPM?

i've tried retarding the stock intake cam one tooth. the upper RPMs were better and bottom end still acceptable. i wan't more so i figured i'd try some cams but install them with wider lobe centers to keep overlap down. i can give up just a little more lowend. probably will try web 109's for both intake and exhaust.

 

I would think the the Pami springs would be fine. I have 2 different motors that run over 9500 all the time. One
has the Pami set up and the other one is the RW's set up. It even has the stock shim buckets.

If they took a forged piston and cut it down to 8-1. I would think that it was ok on clearance since they're valve pockets made into it.

MrHorsepower, I don't think falling off is his problem. He's trying to move the rpm range up to run lower gearing so it don't stresss the clutches so bad.

 

Quote: i've tried retarding the stock intake cam one tooth.

Even though the 109/110 split cams will clear the stock piston, it would be best to clay in your setup if you are changing the lobe centers on the cams. Retarding one tooth is a MAJOR change and can affect both performance and clearances drastically! You might want to slot your gear and retard half a tooth. Chances are the cams will clear, even if retarded, since you said you can still see valve pocket even after machining .120 dish into piston - those are some deep valve pockets!

222

 

I want to do a similar cam mod that the turbo supra did using HKS cams shown here: http://www.moreboost.org/cams.htm

where could i get adjustable cam sprockets for our cams?

 

Hey Scooby,

These are the specs on my Web 110's.

Both are .395" lift, 256* duration @ .050" lift.

Intake - lobe center 104* - opens 24* before TDC - closes 52* after BDC.

Exhaust - lobe center 105* - opens 53* before BDC - closes 23* after TDC.

Hope this helps!!!!!!!!!

Dave