One week from today i took delivery on 2 rubicons, one for myself and one for my fiance. When racing each other in d1 I noticed my atv was substantially quicker. This seemed odd to me because I weigh almost 100 pds more then her. Then I remembered how a topic in the forum came up about throttle cable slack. I immediately removed the seat and carburator top and noticed that it was only opening up about 3/4 on mine and just over 1/2 on hers. So i ran to the garage and got my tools. I removed the boot on the throttle cable and took out all the slack on both atv's. I couldn't believe the difference in power it was like I was riding a totally different atv. When punching from a dead stand still on a loose gravel driveway the atv exploded spinning all four tires for almost 10'. I also made a few minor adjustments with the air fuel mixture screw. I hope this helps those out there with there new Rubicons. I still have not tested the top speed since my adjustments.

 

Hey, im getting a new rubicon and can you tell me
again in better detail about what I should do if I haft to this on my ruby?

 

Lmonrx, how do you like your Rubicons? How does the suspension work? How's the cornering, handling, seat comfort, etc? Our Rubicon is due in July, so I'm wondering what I can look forward to.

 

THANKS!!!! I'll check mine out after work.

 

Nice set-up from your dealer, was PDI included in the purchase??

 

yeah this trick works on any new hondas

 

Do you guys just take up the slack at the thumb throttle wheel itself? Or do you have to do it at the carb?

 

Not all, my 2000 300ex the slide opened all the way right from the dealer.

 

I can't believe that the slop in the throttle isn't immediately apparent to anyone who buys any quad; but to adjust out the slop, loosen the lock nut (wheel) at the throttle & turn the adjuster until the throttle, either twist or thumb, has just a slight amount of play. Tighten the lock wheel, start the engine. With the engine at idle, turn the bars to full lock in each direction. If an increase in RPM's occurs the adjustment is too tight; back off the adjuster slightly just until the RPM's remain constant. Tighten the lock wheel, re-position the rubber boot.
90% of the dealer-assembled bikes or quads are just thrown together & pushed out the door. It's the wise rider who checks all adjustments fasteners, fluid levels, etc., before he ever rides the machine.
Oh, yes in answer to the other post, it's best to use the adjuster at the throttle, rather than at the carb. If the throttle adjuster had used all it's adjustment due to age & stretching of the cable, then the carb adjuster would need to be used. That's a whole nother process

 

The Rancher & Recon that I own both had to have the throttle adjusted.

Try it, it makes a difference!