Has any one ever tried one of these? If so how good do they work?

 

They work great, just took a setup off my quad because I took the front brakes off.

 

Did you block the other side of the caliper off or use both sides. Im not real concerned with individual control, just wanna stop better.

 

I'm not real sure what you mean about blocking the other side of the caliper off, but mine was split, rh master cylinder did the front and lh does the back brakes.

 

I was refering to the inlet on the rear caliper that comes from the handle bar m.c. I would like to use the hot seat master cylndr in place of the foot valve. Maybe get that much more "squeeze" on the rotor. Just a thought. I guess if it works good like they have it set up then so be it. I just gotta stop better. Thanks Polaris freak!

 

I can tell you this, I only used my front when the split setup was on. I know only have the back brakes and it doesn't do much stopping at all and it's hydraulic only. I have crossed drilled front rotors and the front setup, if your interested in it pm me!

 

Whitedog,

I know what your talking about, factory brake set-up seems mushy. Theres a couple of options:

1. You can disconnect the rear brakeline between the rear caliper and the brake manifold (feed by the front master cylinder, LH), plug both the rear caliper and the brake manifold. Now the rear brakes are controled by the foot pedal only and the front brakes are controlled by the left hand brake. This is a cheap (under $5) fix from a local hydraulic fitting supplier. I did this and had SS lines done at the same time, brakes are "stiffer" and seperated.

2. Get the kit and the left hand brake and foot brake will control the rear brakes and the new right hand brake will apply the front brake.

3. Get the kit and modify it so that the LH brake controls all the brakes, the foot brake controls the rear only, and the RH brake controls the front brakes only. I think I'm going to try this next.

 

Yea thats what I did on my 2wd bike. The foot brake works but cud be better. But on my 4by, my foot valve is shot, -leaks around the plunger- so I think Im gona get the Hot seat master cyl. and try and use it in place of it. The hand valve will still work the back, but Id like to be able to skid that rear tire. Then Ill know its rite. Oh yeah, ss brake lines? Up front too? Did this help? Where did u get em?

 

You can save yourself a lot of money and just go to a NAPA store and buy
a "T" and some fittings to block off the main junction. Re-route the line that
went from the front to the back. If you mount the "T" to the frame close to
the rear brake you can reuse the tubing coming from the front. Now you
have two lines coming from the rear foot peddle. I could easily lock up the
rear brake or just use the front brake only.
You will need a tube flaring tool and tube bender. These tools can also be
bought at NAPA or any automotive store. All the stuff you need is under
$30 dollars.

 

SS (stainless steel) brakeline I had custom made at a Hydraulic parts supplier, for about $100. I actually think that the brakelines helped get rid of the soft brake feel more than seperating the brakes. I'm told the internal design of the rear caliper is the real culprit. I learned to slightly apply the hand brake then use the footbrake to lock it up.