YFZ450 owners please check im....
#1
hey folks...just made the jump. i'm wondering what you've added to yours...what you like...what you don't. you get it.
i'll be riding mx and trail. i got the white and red. had the dealer add the GYTR piston,aluminum pipe, and jetted. let me know whats working out there, please. i'll be adding Kenda's and mounting them on a set of champions with beadlocks for the track and save the stockers for the trails.
i know asking for pics is a pain in the a$$. but im asking. thanks guys.
i'll be riding mx and trail. i got the white and red. had the dealer add the GYTR piston,aluminum pipe, and jetted. let me know whats working out there, please. i'll be adding Kenda's and mounting them on a set of champions with beadlocks for the track and save the stockers for the trails.
i know asking for pics is a pain in the a$$. but im asking. thanks guys.
#2
for all the people that feel the need to correct...i do infact realize, that I'm a donkey and I mispelled the word "in" in the title. My apologies to all offended parties.
#3
You need to get more air into these engines to really let them rip, stock they are very restricted, you are probably giving away 2 hp. through the RPM range.
As a minimum get rid of the air box lid.
Pull the stock filter and you will see that there is a stainless steel mesh in the intake slowing airflow. Two options: remove athe whole mounting, it's held in by 5 pop rivets and install a Noss machine filter assembly or install a Ron Woods intake kit. You will need to rejet.
Noss Machine
Ron Wood Racing
whilst the GYTR airfilter is a nice unit you are still stuck with the SS mesh in the intake, and elcheapo mod would be o carefully cut it out I suppose..............
Also consider doing the cam timimg mod, retard the exhaust cam timing by one tooth, add 2 - 3 hp peak and allows the engine to revout much stronger.
As a minimum get rid of the air box lid.
Pull the stock filter and you will see that there is a stainless steel mesh in the intake slowing airflow. Two options: remove athe whole mounting, it's held in by 5 pop rivets and install a Noss machine filter assembly or install a Ron Woods intake kit. You will need to rejet.
Noss Machine
Ron Wood Racing
whilst the GYTR airfilter is a nice unit you are still stuck with the SS mesh in the intake, and elcheapo mod would be o carefully cut it out I suppose..............
Also consider doing the cam timimg mod, retard the exhaust cam timing by one tooth, add 2 - 3 hp peak and allows the engine to revout much stronger.
#4
do what Kiwi said and you will be set for power.
My mandatory mods are: bars, nerfs, swingarm skid
good and inexpensive mods to have IMO: extra cs sprockets (i like the 15T), Denton Damper, quality case saver, Pep chain roller, Zip Ty fuel screw
There are a few pics on my photo page
You really dont need much else to have quite a quad with the YFZ
My mandatory mods are: bars, nerfs, swingarm skid
good and inexpensive mods to have IMO: extra cs sprockets (i like the 15T), Denton Damper, quality case saver, Pep chain roller, Zip Ty fuel screw
There are a few pics on my photo page
You really dont need much else to have quite a quad with the YFZ
#5
Hey Cuz,
I have GYTR everything...some people bad mouth it , but I have had no problems with any of it (except rear skids). Shoot me your email address and I'll send you a couple pics of my bike if you're interested.
My mod's:
GYTR Stuff - Carbon Fibre exhaust, stainless header, nerfs, air filter, front bumper, rear grab bar, 13:1 piston, jet kit & needle, rear skids (in the trash now, not strong enough), full bottom chassis skid plate, blue lightning sticker set and seat cover.
Other mods - open air box, X-Tech bars and clamp, sand stars on Baja T-9's (for Glamis), clear tail light lens with blue LED bulb, carbon fibre goodies (warning sticker covers, rear brake resivoir cover, coolant resivoir cover, etc..), new AC rear skid, Zip-Ty air screw, Pep chain roller relocater, EZ pull billet clutch arm.
Mods to be done soon - cam mod, UM aluminum air box with K & N filter and outerwear, case saver, Denton steering damper.
Future mods - SUSPENSION !! Way too much money to do right now - $2,000.00 ++
God......when I list it all out, it's no wonder my credit card is maxed out!! But the YFZ will make you do crazy things!!!!!!!
Good luck with your new toy!! You will love it......
PH
I have GYTR everything...some people bad mouth it , but I have had no problems with any of it (except rear skids). Shoot me your email address and I'll send you a couple pics of my bike if you're interested.
My mod's:
GYTR Stuff - Carbon Fibre exhaust, stainless header, nerfs, air filter, front bumper, rear grab bar, 13:1 piston, jet kit & needle, rear skids (in the trash now, not strong enough), full bottom chassis skid plate, blue lightning sticker set and seat cover.
Other mods - open air box, X-Tech bars and clamp, sand stars on Baja T-9's (for Glamis), clear tail light lens with blue LED bulb, carbon fibre goodies (warning sticker covers, rear brake resivoir cover, coolant resivoir cover, etc..), new AC rear skid, Zip-Ty air screw, Pep chain roller relocater, EZ pull billet clutch arm.
Mods to be done soon - cam mod, UM aluminum air box with K & N filter and outerwear, case saver, Denton steering damper.
Future mods - SUSPENSION !! Way too much money to do right now - $2,000.00 ++
God......when I list it all out, it's no wonder my credit card is maxed out!! But the YFZ will make you do crazy things!!!!!!!
Good luck with your new toy!! You will love it......
PH
#6
poolhustler : i can't PM you. you don't have the link so i can send a PM...anyways how do you like the Piston? i think some of the GYT-R stuff is to much bling bling...but the pipe,jets and piston i think are as good as anything aleso out there. hell if Kory ellis can race competitively with the GYT-R pipe. then it's good enough for me.
i had the mechanic a the dealer ship try and talk me out of the piston...said i should invest in the suspension before adding that mod. i was like...yeah right, you lazy POS. put it in. let me worry about the rest.
any problem with the handling after you added the piston. can the stock geometry handle the increase in ponies?
Oh and by the way i switched to BLUE...i ran across a white one on the lake this weekend and it looked like S. where the plastics were worn...it was like a dingy brown from all the ground in dirt.
i had the mechanic a the dealer ship try and talk me out of the piston...said i should invest in the suspension before adding that mod. i was like...yeah right, you lazy POS. put it in. let me worry about the rest.
any problem with the handling after you added the piston. can the stock geometry handle the increase in ponies?
Oh and by the way i switched to BLUE...i ran across a white one on the lake this weekend and it looked like S. where the plastics were worn...it was like a dingy brown from all the ground in dirt.
#7
Hey man, if you do the things that these folks are talkig about you will be all set. The biggest difference that I have made to the machine is the full exhaust. I went with the titanium-4, by procircuit, both due to the awesome performance gains, and the crazy weight savings! I removed the airbox lid, and replaced it with an EHS racing lid. I run the prodesign air fliter system (which gets rid of the stupid mesh cone found in the airbox. The adapter plate not only lets you remove that, but creates a much bigger "mouth" to suck more air threw. I run a k&n with that, with the outerwears around the filter. I have done the cam mod, its a must! Also, after doing this many performance mods, I went with the 15 tooth front sprocket, as it gave me a lot more controlable power on the lowend, and gave me a lot more topend. I hate to say this, but I almost had too fast of a machine on the bottem and mid range. I also found that I was hitting the rev limiter in every gear!
As far as other mods go, I went with the GYTR front bumper and grab bar, for a slight weight savings, and better look. I replaces the stock bars the day I bought the bike, and replaced them with renthal atv race bars. I went with full gytr skidplates, and love them, except for the rear ones. Don't bother with those, you are much better off sticking with the plastic ones that come on the bike. I went threw 3 sets of gytr rear skidplates, because any little thing I hit, I would shear the mounting bolts right off. I found that the construction of the skidplates to be incredible, and the bolts where the weakest link in the design, and thats why I kept loosing them. IT was too rigid. Plastic ones give alittle. AND if you tear one of those off, it doesnt cost you $150 to replace!
Oh, also, your jetting is the key component in all this. I am running a 175 main, 48 pilot, and the yz needle on the 4th pos. Mixture screw is 2 turns out.
Good luck man! Hope you get it all decked out the way you want it!!
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