I was woundering whats the best brand of coolant to run in a Vforce?

 

We run a waterless coolant called" Evans". (860) 364-5130

 

Web Site:

www.evanscooling.com

 

Mickey, can you elaborate on that. I looked up NPG+ a while ago when some of us prairie owners were overheating and wondered if it was good to use.

Do you just completely replace the Prairie/Vforce coolant without any modification?

Do you get a cooler running engine and less overheating as a result?

 

I wonder also because I read nothing about running cooler which I want. I don't want to run at boilover temps to start with.

 

When you run your engine under stressful conditions there is metal that is hotter than the boiling point of your water-based coolant. Water vapor is the result. Once formed, water vapor prevents heat transfer from hot cyl head metal to the coolant - it actually insulates. Control of the metal temperature is lost and you get detonation. Evans NPG+ waterless coolant has a very high boiling point and won't make the vapor, preventing cooling system failure.

 

I read all that on Evan's website. I wanted some first hand experience.

I sent a PM to Mickey. He said that he doesn't need radiator fans and coolant bottles on his racing machines as a result.

He wasn't overly detailed in what he said. But basically you can just put it in after doing a super thorough job of getting all the old coolant and water out. No mods necessary.

I am positive that we wouldn't need the coolant bottle. NPG+ doesn't expand with heat like water/glycol does, so the recovery bottle isn't necessary. I am not posiitive about the fan. I think it might be a good idea to leave the fan intact until I see for myself how NPG+ works.

I am not switching to NPG+ right away. I don't need it. I was looking into it when I was having overheating problems before I learned how to get all the mud out of my radiator.

 

NYROC... I can give you a "real world view" on it in a little while... I got a jug with my big bore kit, after expressing concerns about over heating ( which was the cause of my rebuild in the 1st place )... the shop forgot to install it, when they put the new radiator & FST kit in... I'll be installing a fly wheel key in a few weeks, & planned to put the NPG+ in at that time, since I'll need to drain the whole system anyway...

If Mickey comes back on here... Mickey, I read somewhere that one BB kit you did, where you used this coolant, ( may have been regular NPG ??? ), you removed the thermostat...I haven't looked at the manual yet to see if it is possible, or you reccomend this ????

 

I talked to Evans today and got a gallon of their new NPG R instead of the NPG+. The NPG R is their new stuff and is supposed to run around 20* cooler than the NPG+. The R is the lowest viscosity they make, is rated for -10*, and is seasonal. The NPG+ is a long life version and does not need to be changed every season but is a higher viscosity and is I think he said rated to -40* ( I don't remember for sure). He said Mickey is running the NPG R and they also recommend pulling out the thermostat. The want the best flow possible and don't feel that there is a significant need for a thermostat on a 2qt cooling system with a temp controlled fan.

These types of products are probably a good choice for big bore kits because of sleeve being against, or in, the water jacket. The non-water products won't vaporize from the heat or vibration and have less pressure. I don't know how the Evans compares with Engine Ice. I ran Engine Ice and didn't have a temp improvement over regular coolant. However, Engine Ice and the like will not corrode like regular coolant/water mixes.

Peace,
Sgt_Rock

 

Engine Ice is half water. It acts like any other water-based coolant. It can't stop the insulating layer of vapor.