just stiffend up my front shocks and am wondering what the best methodl of adjusting the toe end is.. looks like im in a little to much any wisdom out there guys for setting it up right ??
thanks again

 

i don't now what bomb toe spec is. but I would set it at zero toe. with your wheels pointing straight ahead just measure from center of tire to center of other tire half way up in the back. then measure in the front at same height. they should be the same. I also had issues when I adjusted preload on my fronts. steering got real twitchy. and would try to jerk the bars out of my hand. it also looked like camber went negative. I let it about half way back down from where I started and it is way better.

 

i set mine @ 1/8th inch tow in with me on it. This setting works well and helps with the twitch in the front end.

 

I don't know if this is the best method, but this is how I do it.
#1 Put the quad on a level floor or ground.
#2 Put a mark on the top side of both tie rods with a sharpie.
#3 Measure with a tape on the front side of the tire. (any lug to any lug)
#4 Measure with a tape on the back side of the tire. (same lug as front to same lug as front)
That will be your toe in or toe out. If more in the front, you are toed out.
#5 Loosen jam nuts (these may be left hand thread) on both sides. Turn one tie rod clockwise or counter clockwise one half turn depending on if you are toed in or toed out.
#6 Do the same thing as #5 on the other tie rod.
#7 Did you go past the setting you wanted? Then turn it back a 1/4 of a turn and so on until you get the setting you want.
#8 Got it right yet? Good. Now tighten the jam nuts back up, and go have fun.
#9 Remember, if you do one tie rod, you have to do the other the same amount. Be sure to double check your measurements.
The guy that did my quad at the factory was asleep. Mine was out 1- 1/4"!!!! I set mine straight up. Much nicer steering now. If you want to turn like in a circle type app. set it slightly toed out (1/8" or so). In a drag race deal, slightly toed in( 1/8" or so).

 

thanks for in input guys that was what i was thinking but wanted to make sure

 

I use a long straight straight edge centered on front/rear hubs - The straight edge lightly touches the front and back of the rear tire and runs about 1/2inch off of and along side of the front tire. I'll rest the straight edge on a chunk of wood for the front and rear to keep it at hub heigth while I'm adjusting the tie-rods. After setting up the straight edge, you can look at the front tire and get an excellant visual of the current toe-in.

Also with the seat off, I measure from the end of the bars to the center of the seat latch pin to ensure the bars are straight before I adjust the tie rods. Works sweeet.

I run a tad bit of toe-in so it tracks better at higher speeds.

Sounds funky typing it, but its stupid simple.

jbt

 

thats also a great idea i like the idea of measuring from the tip of the bars back to the post only problem is i kinda bent the top of my handle bar post pad when i ate crap at Sand Mt 2 weeks ago.. tried to straighten it out the best i could but need to make a plate out of some 3/8 stock to bolt down to the top of it to tighten it down and take the tweek out of the handle bar mount ...
yes it hurt lol

 

without having alighnment equipment. it will be difficult to acheive 1/8 toe settings with a tape measure. you can jack up each tire and paint a stripe down the middle of each tire all the way around. then scribe a line in the paint by holding something against the tire and spinning it around until you have a true line all the around. a tire can be 1/8" out of round. so just set it at zero. if you dont have alighnment equipment.

 

For those with a weird visual about my alignment process, you can check my pictures and see what I'm talking about.

This works best with wider tires on the rear. With some narrower rear tires, you may have to equally space off of the rear tire and then pull the front measurement. The only real dependancy is your rear end is somewhat "untweaked".

If you're a purist, ratchet your ride height down with a couple of tie straps and then align.


jbt

 

toe MUST be measured with rider on the bike in the normal ride position. toe changes drastically through the course of the 12" of travel, so any shock adjustment made requires toe to be re-adressed. if you set toe with no rider on the bike, or the rider weighs a lot different than you, then when you get on the toe will be quite different.