My friend just put on a Ron woods Pipe and Rev Box. He wants to know what he should change as far as jetting and needle positions to the stock carb.

 

I just bought a ron woods pipe and rev box, I heard that a 180 main jet would do the trick. so I tried it and it worked perfect.

 

Can you update us on what Ron Wood is currently offering? He is now selling components individually? What is he charging for a pipe? for a rev box? What type of pipe is it - tunable spark arrestor? Are you running stock airbox setups? What happened to the stage one kit with the 45mm carb?

Suggestion concerning rev box: I found that the peak torque is still less than 7700 RPM with his pipe. Given this fact as well as the way the gearing is setup, reving each gear out beyond 7000 RPM only slows you down, when you could have shifted into the next gear instead.

Carb: I would check your plugs and make sure that you are not running too lean with the pipe installed. I am not convinced that the stock jet needle is rich enough for a pipe, but I may be wrong.

 

Pricing on seperate parts would be great....I really liked the woods stage one kit but the rev-unlimiter bothers me.....it wouldnt be too hard to float a valve on the ds....and I really dont want to snap the motor but I also cant see spending the money for the stage two kit...any real use feedback would be appeciated....

 

What is the sympton of a valve that has been "floated"? I don't feel the DS is running right after returning it to 100% stock form and I wonder if I should examine the valves or have the dealer check it out. I don't feel like I am getting a good plug reading and the DS doesn't have as much power as it used to. Other stock DS650's beat me and banshees that I used to beat I don't anymore.

 

Hey Scooby.....

If by chance you did float a valve there are a couple of tell-tale signs:
1. Rough Idle that cant be smoothed out without giving it some throttle.
2. Tick or a knocking noise that increases and decreases with engine rpm.
3. Power loss across the board (If this is the only symptom then it's not really pheasible to diagnose it as a bad valve.)

Worse comes to worse, you can always pay a shop for an hour of labor to inspect the bike. Hope this helps.

 

scooby- audible valve float is the piston hitting the valve. valve float without hitting is just plain luck. To check valve condition is not too hard but still can be hit and miss (unless you have a borescope). move the piston to bottom dead center get a compresion checker that you can put an air chuck on use a valve and a gauge and put about 100 psi into the cylinder( if you were not at bottom dead center you will be after youadd the air so make sure the bike is in neutral) now the easy part moniter the gauge for rapid loss and put your ear to the intake and exhaust and listen for leakage "its just that simple".
also a good vacuum gauge on the motor when it is running will be very erratic if you have a bad or bent valve and just a standard compression test could lead you down the right path( sometimes low compression is caused by the valve not opening fully.
One last thing how do you spell compresion??

 

I spelled vaccuum wrong I think ,must be losing my mental faculties.

 

Floating the valves simply means the engine is turning faster than the pushrods, lifters, and valves to keep up. Resulting in the lifter not touching or "floating" on the cam. You can easily bend or break a valve doing this.

You can install heavier valve springs to resolve the issue. But, I agree with Scooby, I don't feel you're gaining anything by rev'ing the DS out past the limiter.