I just installed a Polaris gray/white primary spring (gray with white stripe) , 58# weights, and removed the plastic nut on my clutch and let me tell you, this thing now jumps out of the hole. This 600 was good before, but that spring REALLY made a difference. Even with a Warn winch and brush guard on the front, if I am on a non-slip surface, and hit the throttle, the front wheels come up so much easier than it did before. On pavemant I can stand it up. This is in Low, they don't come up much in High, it just launches good.

The heavier weights keep the RPM's down at faster speeds and the removal of the plastic nut takes away the speed limiter. My Polaris mechanic recommended these parts to me and for $55, it was well worth it. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]

 

How is it in the mid-range? on some machines removing the plastic nut has allowed the clutch to close too soon and it gets real slugish from about 30-45 mph.

 

It still hits hard in the mid range. My mechanic is known as a Polaris whiz, and he suggested it. When changed the spring, he noticed that it was not tight. I told him it felt dead after 40 or so, and he said it was that nut and removing it would eliminate that feeling. It did. It pulls hard all the way to about 55-60. I didn't think the spring would make that much difference, but it is so snappy now from take off. Now all I need still is to fix the idle mixture, lean at idle...need choke type thing. He has a special tool at work that he is going to bring home one weekend to fix it for me. Supposedly, he can do it without removing the carb or anything.

 

I experimented with diffrent thickness in place to the white plastic nut on the spider and found if I go to something about half the thickness it upshifts too quickly and bogs down at about 50. I'm running 50.5g weights (heelclicker) thats most likely why. I wanted to get a good grab on the belt at low rpm and it did it for me. I had to keep the nut to limit how far the sheeve's would close (keep the RPMS up), the trick is to keep the engine in it's best power range as the speed increases. Talking to other people the setup seems to vari from machine to machine as well.

 

Hey 600towtruck, Your mechanic should have recommended Polaris's cold start update for the carb. on your
600!!! Since doing the update myself my 600 has been awesome!! Starts great, I just pull the choke out 1/8 to 1/4
and it starts right up. I can walk away right after it starts and it keeps running!!! Also I can start riding it immediatly in colder weather with out it popping and backfiring like ti used to, and the throttle response is greatly inproved!!!
The kit includes a new primary jet, new needle jet, jet needle, and throttle valve spring.
I've also been very happy since installing the Dalton primary clutch spring kit, and secondary spring kit for
the larger tires. Like you mentioned, I can pull the front end up in low range with ease now on pavement, and
the acceleration is unreal!!! Dalton didn't recommend removing the ebs limmiter nut that you removed, as they
say you will lose mid range acceleration. Finally this thing is all that I wanted!!!

 

Hey Dano, yeah that (cold start prob) is what he's going to do, just at his house and not at the shop. They didn't want to cover mine since it's an '03. But that's ok, because he lives 15 mins away and does stuff for me anyways. I might try putting that white nut back on to see if it makes any difference, since both of you heard that it does. I'll post the updates/results here too when I do.

 

Hey Dano, I have an '04 600 that was made in August of 03 and I'm wondering if I should have the update done to the carb. It starts great without any choke and stays running without attention. It will backfire during the first five minutes or so if not warmed enough. There are flat spots near the bottom of the throttle that seem to be more frequent as I rack up the hours, only 12 so far and 60 miles give or take. When new it seemed fine. Power is ok but not impressive but I have no other machines to compare it to except for a friend's 500 Vinson. They are about the same with the Vinson taking off better out of the hole. Any suggestions?

 

I'd say the carb might need some tuning, because you should be able to take a Vinson out of the hole easily. I can take my buddy's Grizzly 660 on the start. Mine has 140 or so hours and around 780 miles. Runs great still.

 

Yeah, I was thinkin' I should be able to smoke a Vinson. Guess I'll have to contact the dealer, that's what the warranty is for, right? Not to mention the small "fortune" the damn thing cost me; which my wife reminds me of almost daily.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img] Hopefully they will be good to me.

 

zerowick,

You definitly would notice a difference after the update. It sould no longer pop or backfire, and should be
much more responsive just off idle. The way these things are calibrated to start with makes me think they
have too lean them out so they pass emissions regulations, just like with cars. Get it done and let us know
if it helps!!!