OK, I just found out yesterday that my two-year extension got approved, so I will be here in Korea for a while. I'm going to take the time to buy parts for a Raptor so when I get back, I will have everything I need to have a sweet quad. I was wondering about the suspension, and the lengths of the a-arms and swingarm specifically. Here are my questions:

1) Should I get +2,+0 or +2,+1 a-arms?

2) If I get +2,+1 arms, will the extra inch forward make the quad handle like a pig with a +2 swingarm (+3 wheelbase overall)?

I am going to use triple rate Elkas with remote reservoirs both front and rear. As for me, I am 6' 6" tall, weigh 220 lbs, and ride at an expert level. I don't want +3 a-arms because they make quads steer way too quickly for my tastes and they just don't feel good to me. I could really care less for drag racing, so I will only go +2 on the swingarm because I love to run the trails on the dunes. If you have been to Little Sahara in OK, then you know what kind of trails I'm talking about. The quad will be ridden in the dunes most of the time, but will venture off-road every once in a while. I may even do some MX with it if I get the itch to race on four wheels. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I love my +2,+1 a-arms. I went with triple rate works and it was a difference of night and day.

 

i have +2 swinger and +2 a-arms. I would go with +2 a-arms no forward because you can run your stock shocks. Then you can upgrade later

 

First off, thank you for helping to protect out great country and our way of life.

By moving the tires forward you are actually taking weight off of the front end. You are shifting the weight bias toward the rear. if I remember correctly, this deal of moving the front wheels forward 1" was originally done on the 250R because it's front end was a little heavy. With the Raptor already having a light front end, moving the wheels 1" forward will just make the problem worse. It will push more in the turns.

I would suggest going with the +2 +0 for the a-arms. Get the best ones you can afford. As for the handling with a +2 swingarm, I am currently running +2+1 a-arms (given to me by a friend) and a +2.5 swingarm. This thing handles great! I even use this setup for MX and woods XC racing. A little too wide for the woods, but the length really improves the ride. Far better and more stable going up hills, coming out of corners I can hammer the throttle and not have to worry about it popping the front end up.

By the way, I am 6'3", 230# and I run the Elka triple rate piggybacks. Good luck with your buildup!

RR1

 

I think that I may go with the +2, +0 setup because I will be fabricating the a-arms when I go back home on leave. It will be much easier to make them with no forward offset. Besides, if I decide that I want offset a-arms later, I can just make them, too. I refuse to pay the stupid amounts of money that are being charged for suspension parts. I figured that there may be $180 worth of materials in +2 a-arms, and that includes heim joints instead of ball joints. Swingarms are even cheaper. And, no, I won't be using mild steel, I'll use chromoly. Now I just need to find a mechanically solid Raptor that has thrashed plastic. As long as it is a mid-year 2002 or newer (early 02s had 01 trannies still; I know, I helped fix one in February) and the frame is straight and crack free, I'm in business.

BTW: Thanks for the props, RaptorRacer1!

 

Yeh, I think you are right on about the cost. I am sure the materials cost isn't too much. I think that at least half of the $$ is for the labor of welding them and profit for the company. Can someone tell me why the "long travel" a-arms are a couple hundred more than regular a-arms, and the only real difference is the bend of the arms and the shock mounting points?

RR1