Just Bought an '05 TRV
#1
Well I've been lurking here for a while and on friday I bought a TRV. Took it out today for the first time and man is this thing bad ***. We went out to some local trails and rode lightly to break in the engine. I'm am suprised at the traction this thing gets, I was able to climb almost anything. So far so good. Two questions though: 1. What is the proper way to break this engine in? 2. Can I change the oil to synthetic Mobil 1? 3. Has anyone made an add on rack for the back to increase storage space?
Ok so its three questions.... The amazing thing about this quad is that my g/f likes it too!
Ok so its three questions.... The amazing thing about this quad is that my g/f likes it too!
#2
I changed the oil on both of mine to Mobil 1 at the 100 mile mark. I believe the break-in is for the first 10 hours. Just vary the throttle and don't run it full throttle for more than a couple of seconds at a time. It will build up a lot of heat, so letting off will allow it to cool. Remember not to keep the engine at one speed for too long.
Congrats on your purchase. If my wife will allow it, I'm planning on selling my 375 and picking up a 2006 TRV at this time next year. I want to take my daughter along on some of the trips.
Congrats on your purchase. If my wife will allow it, I'm planning on selling my 375 and picking up a 2006 TRV at this time next year. I want to take my daughter along on some of the trips.
#3
Ziess; If I might ask, what did you pay for it, because my wife has her sights set on one and I'm trying to figure out how bad it's gonna eat into my play budget. If you would prefer you can pm me. thanks
#4
Congrats, you will love that machine! To answer your questions: 1. Vary throttle-follow your manual instructions, it is under the front seat. 2. I waited until 100 miles then changed to a non-synthetic motorcycle oil designed for wet clutch applications until it hit 300 miles and then switched to the Arctic Cat 0-40W synthetic. You buy it in a kit but it is expensive! Do not use any oils that are "energy conserving" or not specifically marked for use in a wet clutch system. Also, if you ever have a problem with your engine/clutch under the 2 year warranty it would be best to have factory fluids in it. Their warranty info is VERY clear on this. 3. I made a small aluminum diamondplate rack for mine to hold a gas can or tool box. There is a guy on the net that welded to gether 3/4 inch square tubing and got the MRP ends to use the accessories on the sides and rear area. It looks pretty awesome.
I just got back from Colorado and put 360 miles on mine in less than a week. I only put 300 miles on it the whole year before I went so I really enjoyed it out there! Your engine will get stronger until about 300 miles as it breaks in. Arctic Cat jets the machines pretty rich so at 300 miles I changed the plug and it was black. Did they put a front locking differential on the 2005? Enjoy!
I just got back from Colorado and put 360 miles on mine in less than a week. I only put 300 miles on it the whole year before I went so I really enjoyed it out there! Your engine will get stronger until about 300 miles as it breaks in. Arctic Cat jets the machines pretty rich so at 300 miles I changed the plug and it was black. Did they put a front locking differential on the 2005? Enjoy!
#6
Just to clarify: I ran the Mobil 1 motorcycle oil, 10w40. Mobil claims it is safe for wet clutches and 800 miles on my 375 seems to confirm that. I've never had a problem with it, but it is expensive. The A/C synthetic is probably a little less expensive.
#7
Ziess, regarding your break in question, check this out. www.mototuneusa.com Go down to the " Break in " section. Interesting reading.
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#8
I just bought a 05 500 TRV in June and this 4th of july weekend I welded up some 1" tubes to it to make it receive regular MRP accessories. It turned out great and now I can expand the rear rack as well as the front. 6 bolts takes the rear rack off. Two 11" long pieces on each side and two 9" peices on the back welded to the existing rack, done. They need to be @ 8" on center or 7" clear between them to accept MRP accessories. I am sure you can pick up the plastic inserts at your dealership, cheap. OH yeah. A slitely bored 1/4" hole accepts the stock pins. If you have any further questions dont hesitate to ask. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
#9
There are some pics of my rear TRV MRP "half-rack" on my page here in atvconnection or http://community.webshots.com/script...umID=105522836
I welded the new rackage on top of the existing tubing as I wasn't sure of the design and capacities. Now that its been through the torture tests of mountains, forest, swamp, and winter ice fishing - I can say its a good design that has proven itself. I would suppose there are other good designs also. If I had to do over again - I'd make it more narrow as I've had to stop and remove the plug in baskets etc to get through some passages.
I welded the new rackage on top of the existing tubing as I wasn't sure of the design and capacities. Now that its been through the torture tests of mountains, forest, swamp, and winter ice fishing - I can say its a good design that has proven itself. I would suppose there are other good designs also. If I had to do over again - I'd make it more narrow as I've had to stop and remove the plug in baskets etc to get through some passages.
#10
As for the rear storage, I put on an AC rear bumper by making a top mounting bracked, then added a piece of plexiglass to hold a cooler. Once you add the bumper, then you can add about any type of rack to it as long as you notch out for the seat frame


