Chain Snapped, did some damage, need advice
#1
Airing out the DS today upon landing I snapped a chain. I probably had it too tight. Replacing the chain isn't the hard part, the side cases where the chain guard is my problem. All the bolts that held the chain guard in place are torn out. I can technically ride it like that without a guard but risk of further damage if this event should hapen again. SO I what I was thinking was replacing the case. However I've been told you need a "Special tool" to remove the case evenly. Is this something I can do or should I send it out (I would prefer to do it here... it's riding time here and really don't want the DS to be down for long). Would I need to remove the top end? The pics are in my gallery, on the last two images.
#2
Scratch that.. ya need to remove the cylinder after all...
Damn.......this defintely has put me in the hole...there are also really no part number for the Magneto cover...anyone have it?
Damn.......this defintely has put me in the hole...there are also really no part number for the Magneto cover...anyone have it?
#3
Do you have any of the aluminum parts? One of the bolts broke on my wife's Raptor and I was able to JB Weld it back on. Not the best solution but beats buying new cases.
I would ask, why replace the cases. You basically have two chances when you break a chain. The first time you loose your chain guard, the second you break your cases and need to replace them.
I'm pretty sure the cases are a matched set so, you would need both of them.
Yes, you have to remove the head and cylinder to get the cases split.
Did you break your magneto cover? There may be others on here with a spare they are willing to part with for a few $$'s [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
Part number I see is 711 211 291 - It may come with the magneto coil. Not sure if Bomb breaks that out.
You may be better off buying a new bottom end when it comes time and parting out your bottom end. You could probably pick up a bottom end for about $800 [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]. You should be able to sell your crank to someone and your tranny to someone too. Depending on what all you buy, you could end up with extra clutch, magneto, etc.
I would ask, why replace the cases. You basically have two chances when you break a chain. The first time you loose your chain guard, the second you break your cases and need to replace them.
I'm pretty sure the cases are a matched set so, you would need both of them.
Yes, you have to remove the head and cylinder to get the cases split.
Did you break your magneto cover? There may be others on here with a spare they are willing to part with for a few $$'s [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
Part number I see is 711 211 291 - It may come with the magneto coil. Not sure if Bomb breaks that out.
You may be better off buying a new bottom end when it comes time and parting out your bottom end. You could probably pick up a bottom end for about $800 [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]. You should be able to sell your crank to someone and your tranny to someone too. Depending on what all you buy, you could end up with extra clutch, magneto, etc.
#4
This same thing happened to me when my chain let go last trip to the dunes. I rode today without the chain guard. Talk to a buddy of mine and he says that he can weld it back without having to remove the case. Going to see how that goes.
#5
I tried JB weld on my old LT250R when I broke the chain & housing. It lasted a little while but found some PC-7 two part compound that did the trick. You can find it @ home depot or must hardware stores. I have used PC-7 on other projects with good results. The prep of the part that your fixing, what ever product you go with is the important part. IMO.
#6
I'd find some one who has an aluminium TIG welder, take it to them and I'd bet for 20$ they'd build it back up and fill in the bosses , take your drill and 6mm tap and you'll be good as new. It's not as bad as you might think, but a heck of a lot cheaper than replacing cases. Be sure to disconnect the battery leads befor you start welding. If you haven't drilled and tapped holes in aluminium before, then practice on some scrap first. You can do it!
#7
That sounds like the ticket, fill in the holes, drill new ones, tap them and it should be good. Then, if you screw up drilling the holes get them filled in again. Though I would definitely practice first!
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#8
Did these chains break on regular links or was it at the master link? If so were they clip type masters? I've never heard of the 530 chain breaking at anywhere but the clip master link.
#9
Replacing the bottom seems pretty pricey. Where would I go to get that? I don't have the pieces, nor the chain. I left it at the track. I was thinking of finding a place to weld that area. I'm going to search around and see who can possibly do this for me. This one problem really bummed me out. The chain threw and the guard went at the same time. I have one of those TVI Chain guards and tho it is pretty beefy, I'm not sure if the stock guard would have done a better job. I was so bent I didn't bother inspecting the chain. Again I think it did snap because it might have been a slightly a little tighter than it normally is. Thanks for your input guys.
However one question remains unanswered, if I did replace the cases (man is it going to be some work) would I need a special tool to seperate them. I'm just looking at every option. I know Eaglecollector has a nice detailed web page of him tearing into his motor. I'll see if I can find it.
However one question remains unanswered, if I did replace the cases (man is it going to be some work) would I need a special tool to seperate them. I'm just looking at every option. I know Eaglecollector has a nice detailed web page of him tearing into his motor. I'll see if I can find it.


