Can anyone tell me which wire to tap into for a customized reverse light on a 2002 AC 500i-auto? I'm looking for a wire that is hot only in reverse gear that can power a rear mounted 35 watt light. I think I can hook into the reverse indicator light, but was hoping to avoid running a wire all the way from the indicator.

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Spike; I would recommend you not try to operate a 35W lite off the reverse lite circuit. Run a relay with the reverse lite wire and have it control a seperately fused lite circuit.

 

The more I research and the more I think about it, the more I realize the simplest way is to install a rear light with an independant off/on waterproof switch that's within arm's reach while sitting on the seat. Fuse it and run it to a back light, then simply ground its output wire. To reduce the need for a fuse, I might even run it through the asseccories fuse - so its also off/on with the ignition key. Very simple to install and easy to use.

Do you know good those single 35 watt warn backup light work? Since it will only be on for up to 1 minute at a time interval of 20 minutes, I'm not too worried about over draining the battery. The light will mostly be used to backup to trailers or perform 3 point turns on a dark bush trail. If wondering, I got caught driving in the dark for 1 hour last weekend and while performing a 3 point turn on the dark bush trail, I got accidentaly nailed in the back with a large tree branch. Talk about ouch!!!! After that, I now realize how improved safety a backup light is - especially on a dark trail.

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I would just buy a cheap light from Wal-Mart and mount it......could get the switch and everything for about $15 I bet.......fuse holder...everything. Just get a set of cheap driving or flood lights for a vehicle. That will be more then you will need.

 

Originally, I was thinking of the Warn Backup light. It's a single 35 watt bulb. In my stock pile, I found a spare automotive fog/driving light. It's pair was mounted on the front of my son's Polaris Pred-90 unit. (I now understand why my wife calls me a "pack rat"). This plastic case light has a factory H3-55W bulb. I've got lots of 12v wiring laying around. The only thing I need to do is purchase an inline fuse and a rotation switch. I'll go with the same $4.00 rotation switch and inline fuse holder I used for my son's customized front light. In the end, my entire cost should be approx $10.00. Pretty darn good price for a manual backup 55W light. If the 55W drains the battery too much, I'll replace with a H3-35W bulb.

I completed the welding tonight (for the light bracket & license plate relocation) and hope to finish the wiring tomorrow afternoon. Thanks for helping me "explore different ideas" and move this upgrade forward.

 

I finished installing the rear light on my AC 500i today. The details are:
- Spliced the live and ground wire into the External Power outlet
- Added in an in-line fuse (10 Amp)
- Installed a lighted rocker switch.
* This switch lights up when its on (great to see in the dark)
- Ran a single live wire to the back.
- Removed the rear tool box.
* Since I use our rear seat for storage, I don't need the rear tool box.
- Welded in a 90 degree brace
- Installed a Plastic case 55W fog/driving light on the top.
- Lights ground wire off the muffler's bolt.
- Screwed my license plate on the bottom.

For pictures, surf:
- Picture 1 -
- Picture 2 -
- Picture 3 -
- Picture 4 -
* Sorry, the battery in my digital camera was low. This is why my pictures are so dark.

For my limited skills and budget, this was the option I used. Others may use a relay that's wired into the "R" live wire. What ever works best for you - if you want to install a Reverse light on the back of your unit.

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Here's a review of a simular product:

https://atvconnection.com/editor/review/accessory/backuplight/review.htm

Hope this helps others...

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Good setup. Looks pretty clean on there. I think just buying accessory lights and rigging the thing up yourself looks a lot better than some of the actual "ATV Backup Light" kits that some places sell. The one I had on my AC was pretty clean, and the one I have on the Grizzly looks like it was sent that way from the factory. All wires hidden and very solid.

 

Is that switch water and crud proof? Looks like a neat installation!

 

The lighted switch that I installed seems hold up great in water. I've washed my unit many times with a power washer and it hasn't shorted out. A few times, I've had the switch under dirty water (deep water hole content with others events) and it held up with no problems. To help repel water, I also applied outdoor caulking to the back of its switch (to also help hold it in place) and applied dielectric grease to its outer surface. This helps keep the water from getting inside the switch, and makes it toggle back and forth very smoothly. Also, I find that 12v switches are very forgiving in water - compared to 110/120V switches. If the switches inner bulb does blow, I'll simply replace the switch with another. I think the switch cost me $6.00 (or something like that). The plastic 55W "automotivie fog light" I used cost me $12.00. For extra water resistance, I applied dielectric grease to its H3 bulb socket and its fuse contacts as well.

Only time will tell how good the lighted switch I used will hold up. So far so good!!!


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