Well over the past week Ive been trying to tune my bike for the LRD exhaust I put on, it used to run fine, but popping on decel (lean condition) so in effort of trying to get the mixture right, ive been rejetting, and tuneing via the air/fuel screw (on bottom of carb) and just because I wasnt sure what I was doing with the screw (with ****, attached to a small cable) I really got it out of adjustment, actually I have no clue where its suppose to be (idle screw).

I need a ballpark, like if I have the screw all the way counter-clockwise, how many turns should I be turned to the right (clockwise) to be around the stock idle postion? Right now the bike wont run, it will sputter for a few seconds if I choke it, but after that it just stops.

I obviously have a long way to go in tuning the carb, I have no problem rejetting (main, needle, or pilot) thats the easy part. but figuring out the other screws is what is giving me problems.

Any help?

Btw, I run a 165 main, stock pilot, 4th clip down on needle, 2 turns out on air screw (pilot screw) I DO have a 45 pilot to put in, but its is taller that the stock, so I am not sure if that will work or not. It is a Keihin 45 pilot, though.. Just about the size of a pencil eraser taller.. heh

Thanks
Dave

 

Jetting is more art than science. If your goal is to spend the riding season playing around and learning about jetting by trial and error, then go ahead. If you want a bike you can actually get out and ride, just spend the money to have it jetted by an experienced professional! My experience has been that the manufacturers suggestions just get you in the ballpark, and from there you have to do it by "feel", which takes a lot of experience, which the average garage mechanic doesn't have.

 

I believe that 2-2 1/2 turns counter clockwise from all the way in is about stock position. The **** with the cable is idle speed. It sounds like you are foulling the plug. Turn air/idle screw all the way to right. Turn left 2 1/2 turns. Keep the stock pilot in until you get it started. When you get it running, let it warm up. When the machine is good and warm set to the correct idle rpm's. When this is accomplished start adjusting the air/idle screw. Turn the screw to the right slowly until the engine sounds erratic. Next turn the screw to the left while counting the number of turns until the engine becomes erratic again. Turn the screw back to the right half the number of turns that you counted and that is where you want the screw to be set.

 

Ok, so looking at the screw, turning clockwise all the way is "no idle", and all the way left (counterclockwise) is flooding it, right?

Also, the "idle speed" aka ****+cable is what your also referring to as the air/idle screw, right?

The fuel screw is the one on the bottom of the carb, correct?

Just dont wanna screw it up any more (pun intended) that it already is [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

Also, I beleive in taking the time myself to learn how to do it, I never have, and dont plan on ever letting someone else work on the bike, unless were talking machine work. Ive been riding and fixing since I was 11, so I have a good idea how things work, but every carb is a little different.

Thanks for all you help,
Dave

 

Correct looking at the screw and turning it clockways is no idle, and counter clockways is flooding it. The idle speed however, is the engines rpm's like a cars tachometer reads. The air/idle screw is on the bottom that you are calling the fuel screw.

 

i would go for the bigger pilot i had the same problem as you on idle-1/4 throttle and a 42 pilot fixed it.

 

Well It ran ok before, just popped alot on decel, so I tryed tweaking all the screws, and well lost positon on the idle speed screw (****?). I do have a 45 pilot (LRD recommends 50) but it is longer than the stock, and I dont know if it will work or not..

 

Try the 50

 

Hah, yeah im dumb. I was almost outta gas, thats why I had trouble starting it.

45 pilot in, fuel screw 2 turns out, 4th clip down on needle, 165 main jet, I still get backfires, (flames) and popping. How far out would be considered "maxed" on the fuel screw before I need to get a larger pilot?

Thanks
Dave

 

mines at 3 turns and stock pilot and stock needle 165 main