I am having continous problems with my carb sticking.. I sent it back to to KY and it was polished and returned with a new twist cable. Well, it seemed ok for a while but later in the day it was starting to stick again and really taking the found out of it!!! I was told to soak the slide in WD40 and smooth it with 220 grit sand paper? My cable has no cripms in it and it opens VERY easy with whenthe motor is off... I am not sure what to do now..

 

I ended up polishing the slide to a fine chrome look. Also, I cut two coils off of the spring, and replaced the thumb cable with a sweet kawi one piece that "almost works" type of gig. The cable isn't as good as it should be, but makes the feel close to stock. The initial 1/16th of inch of pull is sort of taunt, but fine after that.

FYI - Any more than two coils and the slide became unpredictable on when it wanted to close......I'm not sure cutting coils off of these carbs is a valid fix because the Lectron is a lot more prone to sticking open than a CV carb.

Lectron listes three different spring rates as being available, has anybody tried these??

jbt

 

Shouldnt HorsepowerResearch have a fix for this? I dont get it. I have no stick issues, but I hear about it alot.

 

hpresearch has prolly done all they can, its not their faul its Lectron's. the simplistic design of this carb does not encorporate any feature at all to combat the sticking. the bearinged/bushinged surfaces that other flat slides have are not present in this carb. that's one thing that makes the price so disgusting, so much cheaper to build, but higher retail. the ones that don't stick are very lucky, I feel bad for all the ones that do.

a slide sticking open on a CV carb is nowhere near the problem, at least the butterfly in front of it will still close when you let off the throttle so you'll still throttle down, but on a flat slide if it sticks open you're history on a trail.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]

 

Ive found that the only time mine has stuck is when I used some cheap race gas from Silver Lake Sand dunes. That crappy fuel seems to separate really quickly, and built up on the slide. But, I will be sending my slide out for hard coat anodizing. This will take care of the problem for me.

Gary

 

I just got the lectron on yesterday and didnt have any problems....but I will have to say that at WOT it seems to want to hesitate returning to closed position. It HAS NOT stuck open but I could see what you may be talking about...... Are we all talking about the same thng ??

 

Yes, we are talking about the same thing... What yours is doing at WOT will get worse, that is how it starts. Mine used to just hang for a slit seconds, just enough to make a mental note it stuck up. then shuts. Then over time as in hours of time it gradually gets worse. Now, as far a fuel goes I run the cheap pump stuff. I was told to run the cheap pump stuff by HPR. I am going to try to get some sand paper and wd as I was told and try to fix it my self or most know that I have to do it before every ride.. THAT MY FRIEND IS NOT AN OPTION! They also REALLY need a 1 piece cable. Its been out long enough to work with Terry cable to get it right. That split cable sucks..

 

I have Lectrons on every bike I own and have never had the throttle stick open in 10yrs. I have however seen Lectrons with sand and grit in the slide area which caused problems. Common sense and general maintenance is all it takes to have a perfect operating Lectron.

I have also noted that the Lectron will rev very high with only 1/8inch of throttle opening meaning that throttle cable SLACK is priority.

The slide in a Lectron absolutely CAN NOT stick open without some form of outside influence.
Now if you park your bike outside for months at a time in humid or wet weather the needle can form rust and cause problems. If you dont have throttle cable slack it will cause problems. If you dive off in a mud hole and sink your bike the Lectron is not for you. If you want to idle at 1000rpm its not for you. If the cable adjusters are left loose they can vibrate open over a period of time, taking up throttle cable slack and making the problem seem to get worse as it goes.


MudStud if your slide is operating perfectly with the motor off then how can it "stick" with the motor running. Check your cable for slack in all handlebar positions. The slide is probably being held up by the cable instead of resting against the idle screw. If you can not figure out the problem send the entire assembly to me with out making any adjustments or taking anything apart. I will put it on my bike and find the "real" problem and publicly state it on this forum so that others will be informed on what not to do. Also take a picture of how the cable is routed before you pull it off.

One other note: If you have the billet thumb throttle and wear riding gloves it is easy for the thumb lever, because of its long throw, to hang on your index finger.

 

to clarify my comment: "initial 1/16th of inch of pull is sort of taunt"

This measurement starts *after* reeling in the 1/8 inch of cable slack and you reach the point of when you "know" the slide is about to move.

With the billet thumber, this slack setting is critical. Not enough slack and you'll never get a good idle to hold. To much slack, and you'll never pull the slide to the top. I set this up with the snorkle off the carb so I can visually verify what is happening.

Finally, sealing the top of the cable entry into the Lectron and getting a straight pull is very critical as well. I've posted a picture of my setup.

My bike idles great around 1,300-1,400rpm. How I got to the kawi cable is a 2 beer cryfest, but had more to do with my ignorance than the cable design. However, once I installed it, I really liked it.

jbt

 

MRHP is that to say that you want a touch of slack ?
This is how I set it up......
I installed the Moose Billet Thumb Throttle.. Made sure it was clean too.
Routed the cable as best I could. I ended up doing a small modification to the right side of the tank cover where it bolts down by drilling away a small amount of the plastic behind the bolt.
when I took out the slide to attach the cable I made sure the slide was clean then reinstalled it.
When I was adjusting the slack in the cable , I had a view of the slide from the intake of the carb. I adjusted the cable till I saw the slide start to move then I backed it off till the slide sat back down then I gave the cable about a 1/2 turn more of slack . Then I turned the handlebars left & right to make sure there was no movement in the slide and also moved the cable by hand and watched for the same thing.
After that was satifactory I let it warm up and took it for a spin.