my little 50 wont start not even a little pop with starting fluid any ideas
pulled plug good compresion
got spark got fuel
anyone know the timing on these and how to set it any help would be great

 

There are two connectors going to the switch assembly on the handlebars. Disconnect the three wire connector. This is just
for the little red kill switch, and works by shorting one of the CDI pins to ground. They have a nasty history of causing all
sorts of problems after getting moisture. You will need to remove the black headlight panel to get to the connectors.

If this is the problem, be sure to avoid the temptation of "replacing the switch someday". Safety first - do allow operation
until a working kill switch is installed.

If this isn't the problem, let me know.

 

got good spark do you know how to adjust the valves ?

 

Again, suspect the switch first. Even though you have spark, when these switches
heat up after a few seconds, they play some nasty tricks. Spark should be 6-8KV. Also
be sure you're not running too lean on the carb. When they adjust in China for
the air density over there, they come out too lean for the US.

Anyway, to answer your question, look at

http://www.hondaheaven.org/Downloads...oad-cid-4.html

Look at the manuals for the Z50/K0-K2 and the Z50R. While 30 years old, these manuals
are from the famous Honda Monkey bikes that Lifan and Longxing purchased the tooling to clone
their engines, and are close enough to use on the Kazuma Meerkat 50s. they also
have decent troubleshooting sections.

By the way, I think one of the other manuals (Z50A?) had the best carb adjustment section for
the Walbro PZ 19 -like carb on the Kazumas.

Cheers,

Skip Carter

 

Skip, I am having a similar problem with my Chinese ATV. It is a 90 cc ATV and has the name Western Flyer on it. I have a no spark concern and I have purchased a coil, but have not tried it yet. Do you have any info on these bikes as to what they may be the same as? Yerf Dog used to have a parts list on their website that was identical to the part list for the Western Flyer, but it has since been removed. The place where we got the ATV at, will close its doors within a couple of weeks and I'm afraid parts will become even scarcer than they are now. Thanks

 

Sorry, that's one I never heard of. As a general rule, ATVs get wet. So, first suspect
all the various kill switches, ignition switch etc that will, depending on how the
machine is wired, cut power to the coil/CDI , or ground one of the CDI pins. A handy
device is the old fashioned RPM tach meters from the seventies that will test
voltages and rpm at the low side of the coil.

Chasing origins of the chinese ATVs is a lot like searching family trees. You
need to spend hours on the web searching for sources, matching pictures,
etc. Many factories within the same region also use the same parts, so
you should also look at online USA dealers with parts on their website,
looking for pictures that match the coil, switches, etc.

Look on the VIN plate or certificate of origin, and it should have the actual
company that made it. That would be a good start. I might be able to
help that way.

 

Skip, Great News!!!!!!!! Just as you had mentioned, it was the kill switch in the center of the handle bars, the one with the black plug in it that has the tether strap to tie around your wrist. I unplugged it and bypassed it and the thing about run through the shop wall when it started!! Now, as usual it seems, I have created another problem. Before I checked for a spark several weeks ago, I suspected the carb might have trash in it. So I took the carb off and took it apart. I didn't find any trash to speak of, but that throttle cable looked awful scary. I was afraid I might not be able to get it back together just right and apparently, I did not have something just right with it, by the way it started at full throttle. So, to make a long story short, I'm going to pull the airbox off and access the throttle and see if I can get this problem straightened out. Thanks for the help!