Hey folks, we all have a friend on this forum that is in a bind and needs some help to fix his kid's machine, but won't ask. So, I am asking for him. If you can help, please PM me and I'll forward the information to him.

He has two issues. One, the stator on his son's Predator 90 is suspect. He bought a multimeter to test it with, but is in need of some technical assistance on test procedures, usage etc.

Secondly, if anyone has a known good stator from a like machine laying around, he could sure use it right now.

 

To help your friend in testing his Pred-90's stator problem, here's what can be done without taking the side of their plastic and/or flywheel off...


1 - Follow the bundle of wires out of the top of the engine and under the upper steering frame. Its 2 single bullet and one white connector is hidden in this area. They are a "pain in the tail" to get at but with a little time, one can unplug them.

For a picture of these wires, surf: - Press Here -
* Click on "Normal Size" to read its text.

2 - With the wires pulled out and their connectors easy to get at, perform the following:

a - Test Digital Ohms meter reading from W/R wire to B/R wire. You should get a number above zero. Sorry, I can't remember the exact number one should get.
b - Test Digital Ohms meter reading from W/R wire to Frame Ground. You should get approx 463.
c - Test Digital Ohms meter reading from B/R wire to Frame Ground. You should get a number above zero. Sorry, I can't remember the exact number one should get.

The meter number from above "b + c must = a" (equal too or pretty darn close).
* If they don't, you have a bad stator (either gone or ready to blow) or you have a bad frame to engine ground. Install better grounds (see below) and repeat the above steps.


To test the unit's "frame to engine ground", locate the Black wire in the 3 connector plug and meter read to its frame. If the number is above 0, then you might have a bad ground. Some install a "thick cable" from their frame to its engine. And a thicker cable from its battery "-" side to its frame. This might help. Note: Can also perform above a, b & c by using the Black ground wire in the 3 wire white connector. This is a ground into the stator system and it should give the same readings if being grounded to the frame.


If the numbers don't look right, one must take the right side of their plastic and flywheel off. It could be a broken wire inside the stator area. Hence, the current isn't getting to the external wires that are being tested.


Hope these testing instructions helps your friend (and other Pred-90) folks out.

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For your Special Friend (and others) in need, here's a few other options - if a bad stator is discovered...

1 - Possible replacement with an E-Ton 90 stator. Hopefully, someone can confirm if an E-Ton 90 stator is a direct "bolt in" or one that will fit with very little modifications. I remember reading a post on another forum stating it will fit, but it didn't list the details. re: exact year and make of the E-Ton 90.

2 - Have a local electrical company re-coil it. Some electrical companies do re-coiling with better wires. Not too sure of the cost but if better coil wire, it might be the last stator replacement they ever purchase for their Pred-90 (or other brands with a blown stator).

3 - If re-coiling, one might even get its power generation re-coiled as well. If possible, one could obtain the Pred-90 wiring diagram and figure out what parts are needed to upgrade in order to give it more then 70W of generation output. Or, another coil might be installed to run daytime running lights only. And leave the factory 70W system to re-charge its battery and brake light. If wondering, I got this re-coil idea for better lights from: - Press Here -


Hope this helps as well....

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