I would like input from fellow atv'ers on what type of oil you suggest using in my quad. I have a new Ruby and want the best protection. Should I use only Honda oil? Should I switch to synthetic, and when should I switch?
Thanks

Ruby
trx 300fw

 

Although a ton of people will disagree with me, but the manual suggests Honda GN4. That's what I use. If you buy it by the case it is cheaper. And spending a couple of dollars more on oil will not break the bank.

 

Synthetics are proven to surpass dino oil in all respects. Multigrade non-synthetics need healthy quantities of Viscosity Improvers (VI) to achieve a typical 10W-40 oil. Whereas synthetic oils use very little, if any. These compounds have been shown to have bad effects on engines. Modern autos are now shying away from the 10W-40 spread for that reason. Bottom line, I use a 10W-30 synthetic in my Ruby, and a 20W-50 synthetic in two air-cooled ES machines.

That said, caution must be used in the selection of a synthetic. A purist would use Amsoil, Chevron Delo Synthetic 10W-30, or Mobil Delvac 1, all "real" synthetics. Most other synthetics, including Castrol Syntec, are "blended" with what the oil industry terms "Group III" oils. All very fine products, but Amsoil is rapidly becoming one of the few real synthetics on the market. It bothers me that Group III oils can be called synthetic, but this is what we are faced with.

Hope this didn't cause a confusion factor. In a ATV, where one will change the oil every 500 miles or so, any good semi or real synthetic will make your machine last forever.

 

As Nuke said synthetics are superior oils and I would go to synthetics but don't switch until your bike is past breakin period. But I would not follow the extended change schedule they claim. I would change it based off Hondas oil change schedule using synthetic oil for best over all protection and longevity. Changing your oil regularly is the most important part regardless of oil type

 

So when exactly is the breaking period over??

 

Hi bnt5:

The dealer told me after the first scheduled maintenance it was considered broke in. The Ruby is 25 hrs. riding time.
Thanks

 

While I agree with most of your post.....

As far as I know, Castrol is the only one currently pushing the envelope of the definition of "Synthetic" by using Shell VHVI Group III base oil. They didn't start this way, they switched from using a Group IV PAO base - I imagine for profitability...

Amsoil uses a PAO base if I remember correctly, both Delvac1 & Mobil1 are mostly PAO, but also contain, Group V Esters and Group V Alkylated Napthalene. Some, such as Redline and Motul use only Group 5 Esters. I believe most oils labeled as synthetic are using a Level IV PAO base (some with a little Group V mixed in).

 

86atc250r,

One oil comes immediately to mind, although many of the new "tri-blend" synthetics may also be mixing in some group III base stock. From what I read the new Chevron Delo 400 5W-40 Synthetic is 100% group III base stock. Strange though, as the Delo 400 Synthetic 0W-30 is not. I guess it's just a "buyer beware" situation as in the case of Castrol Syntec, or possible more a "buyer confused" thing. As I understand it, Castrol refused to divulge to the public the contents of the reformulated Syntec until Mobil sued them.

 

Actually the Mobil1 Tri-synthetic formulation change was a change for the better. They went from mostly PAO and a little ester to PAO, ester and Alkylated Napthalene (both ester and AN being group 5 bases).

Definitely buyer beware, even the court system didn't hold up for us on this one. Heck, it even sounds like Quaker State will be able to call some of their conventional oils synthetic, because they believe them to hold some synthetic characteristics. We'll probably see more of this type of BS with Castrol's win in court....

 

I have a '01 Rancher TM without the digital read-out to tell me the milage and hours. Should I just "guesstimate" when I've reached the break-in period or what? Thanks for any info on this.

2001 Rancher2x4 orange