Hi everyone,
I'd like to start with a thank you to everone who has been helpful and responsive in some of the questions i've had in the past 2 weeks or so.
It looks like i'm an "Old guy" but full of energy i guess. I'm 42 and use my sportsman as a tool for hunting , fishing and clearing my property more then a toy.
Enough of that. I want to give a run down on a couple of things I've tried that may be helpful to someone else.
Last week i installed a 3 light kit that i got off E-bay, That works fine and easy to install. Along with it came instructions to bypass the rev limiter and to keep it in 4WD while backing, All without having to hold the button on the left grip. After being apprehensive about "ERROR" on the speedo, I did as instructed and it works great, what a help as I'm in reverse at least half the time hauling cut trees.
If any one wants to know how to do this I'll be happy to give it to you. I mounted the toggle on the green part of the instrument pod just above the chock ****.
I leave it on all the time. The only thing i see so far is it disables the trip odometer to 00 and you cannot toggle through the other functions, Tach, Hour meter, Odometer. I havent figured out if it stops the clock and Odometer from the actual yet. When you turn the switch off you have all the stuff back.
In all , this mod works out well for me.
Next i pulled all the girly warning stickers off the body work. Sorry ladies, no offense. Please send picture so i can see who i am appologizing to.
I used a heavy duty heat gun like used for shrink wrap, although a do think a hair drier would do it. Heat it from a short edge then push it with a ruler, I used a steel scale but a peice of plastic would be better. I usually use the closest thing i can get my hands on. When you can get ahold of enough to pull it, tug as you heat it.
Clean the residue off with mineral spirtits (paint thinner) It won't hurt the plastic. I wouldn't use Laquer thinner as you will have a mess for body panels.
Last thing i put on the thing is a rear suspension lock that i bought from Pure Polaris through the dealer. They paid the shipping, Man i hate paying list price for anything.
I needed this because i am setting up the machine to pull a single bottom plow for preparing food plots. As my screen name implies i am a deer hunter here in upstate New York.
When pulling the plow and disc it squats the back end and bottoms out the suspension . It doesn't work out too well for that type of work.
I did need to modify the mounting plates that come with it, that took about an hour. If any one is interested in that i'll explain what needed modification and how it works.
It does work as wanted and the ride is not horrible, I run soft tires. What i did find though is when in 4WD at anything above 10 MPH it wants to pull the bars from side to side. When not needing the rear locked up it takes 20 seconds to pull two pins and it drops off. Two brackes stay on the lower A arms. You may loose some ground clearance near the tires but for me that is not a problem.
This too was a successful modification with very minimal permanant alteration to the frame.
By the way i too was young and wheelied my share of Maicos (you old guys will know what i'm talking about) and Ninja's. I do own a Porsche and get a chance to wail on that once in awhile.
With the suspension lock on in 2WD the thing just about wheelied over backward, wholly crap.
As you can see i don't want to do what work i have on the desk in front of me.

Thanks again for the input to my newbe questions and I'm sorry if you have heard these questions and solutions before.

Deerkiller