[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]I for one always thought that the Honda brand motor was a little pricey ($6.00)+ per qt.
Well I was in VIP automotive and saw there atv oil 10W40 at $8.99 per qt. Holie Molie is
this stuff really that big of a difference. I have ran Mobil 1 in my 93 Honda trx300 for over
12 years now and no prob. I wonder if it would run better at 9 clams per qt.

 

It's not worth the price. In fact, Honda GN4 oil is farmed out. It's rebadged Castrol. Any reputable automotive motor oil of the correct viscosity will do just fine. I've heard to stay away from synthetics, but don't ask me why. That's a story for another time.

 

The oil has to be non energy conserving. Energy conserving oil has friction modifiers in it, which is murder on wet clutches.

You cannot use any regular automotive oil in a wet clutch ATV.

 

Its marketing hype. Dont fall for the reasoning of "if its more expensive its better". You can use any 10w 40, and as long as its non energy conserving (no moly)and is rated sf or higher. Look for the star burst symbol on the bottle. If it has that, then it has moly added.
Theres no problems using synthetics, except its usually more expensive. Its the moly that may cause problems, not whether its dino or synthetic.

 

It never ceases to amaze me how someone can shell out $10K for a bike, gas, tires, and all kinds of aftermarket goodies, then bitch about spending a couple of $ extra for a quart of high quality oil. Pick an oil that is MOTORCYCLE SPECIFIC and API SG/JASO MA. For the record, I don't use Honda oils seeing they are no longer API SG. http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil.htm

My personal preference is Maxima Extra or Ultra, both ester synthetics. On the other hand, there are lots of reasonably priced API SG/JASO MA petroleum oils out there if you insist on saving a couple of bucks. But, remember that the difference between a good oil and a great oil, is the price of a lousy can of beer.