Chain Adjustment 96 Sportsman 400
#1
Can someone give me a quick how-to on chain adjustment for a 96 Sportsman 400. I just bought it and of course dont have the manual. I have read a couple threads from old post, but am a little un-clear on the process. Thanks
#2
ENDL
I will do my best to help you. I am assuming the 96 is the same as my 98 with the three chain system. For the rear chain, you need to take a ratchet strap and hook it to the hitch and the rear subframe. Crank the strap down until the rear of the vehicle is completely squatted or the swingarm is horizontal with the subframe. This eliminates the slack in the chain (this step is no longer necessary on the newer concentric drive models). Once you have the rear squatted, check the chain tension. It should still have about 3/8 to 1/2 of free play. If you need to adjust it. Loosen the rear swingarm bolts (large bolts holding the hitch and bearing housing onto the swingarm. Upon getting these loose, stick a drift pin or screwdriver through the hole in the socket into the bearing housing on the swingarm. You have to find the right hole. The pin will go about an 1 into the bearing housing. With the pin in place, roll the vehicle forward. This will twist the bearing housing within the swing arm and tighten the chain. When the chain is tight enough, remove the pin and righten the swingarm bolts to 45-50 ft/lbs. Check the movement of the chain guard to ensure it is not rubbing. Remove the ratchet strap, lube chain and ride. Check the middle and front chain also. These do not need to be adjusted that often. If you need to adjust these, post another reply and I will walk you through this. It is essentially the same principal. Hope this helps.
I will do my best to help you. I am assuming the 96 is the same as my 98 with the three chain system. For the rear chain, you need to take a ratchet strap and hook it to the hitch and the rear subframe. Crank the strap down until the rear of the vehicle is completely squatted or the swingarm is horizontal with the subframe. This eliminates the slack in the chain (this step is no longer necessary on the newer concentric drive models). Once you have the rear squatted, check the chain tension. It should still have about 3/8 to 1/2 of free play. If you need to adjust it. Loosen the rear swingarm bolts (large bolts holding the hitch and bearing housing onto the swingarm. Upon getting these loose, stick a drift pin or screwdriver through the hole in the socket into the bearing housing on the swingarm. You have to find the right hole. The pin will go about an 1 into the bearing housing. With the pin in place, roll the vehicle forward. This will twist the bearing housing within the swing arm and tighten the chain. When the chain is tight enough, remove the pin and righten the swingarm bolts to 45-50 ft/lbs. Check the movement of the chain guard to ensure it is not rubbing. Remove the ratchet strap, lube chain and ride. Check the middle and front chain also. These do not need to be adjusted that often. If you need to adjust these, post another reply and I will walk you through this. It is essentially the same principal. Hope this helps.
#3
MMM,
I have a friend who has a scrambler 500 with the 3-chain system. We adjusted the rear and middle, but couldn't figure out how to adjust the front. What all has to be loosened in the front for chain adjustment? Thanks in advance.
Waylan
I have a friend who has a scrambler 500 with the 3-chain system. We adjusted the rear and middle, but couldn't figure out how to adjust the front. What all has to be loosened in the front for chain adjustment? Thanks in advance.
Waylan
#4
Waylan
The front chain is probably the biggest pain of the three. First, remove the plastic cover over the chain. Second, there is one bolt holding the front shaft housing in place. You have to use a socket (can't remember the size exactly, but I think its a 5/8 inch) wrench with an extension on it. Stick the socket up through the bottom of the floorboard right below the front shaft housing (housing with the u-joints leading to the front wheels). Loosen this bolt. Upon loosening the bolt, spray a little WD-40 around the shaft housing to help it rotate. Stick a pin through the sprocket and into the shaft housing. Use a strong pin that will go a ways into the shaft housing. I think you can stick a pin all the way through the housing. I bent several pins until I found one hard enough. Once you have the pin in, roll the vehicle backwards until the chain is tight. The shaft housing does not rotate real well. The secret is that there is a few places that the pin can go into. Figure out which one gives the best leverage on moving the shaft housing with the sprocket. This sounds confusing, but will make sense once you try a few different holes. Once the chain is tight, retighten everything back up.
Oh, by the way, do not attempt to use the motor to roll the vehicle backwards. I was having trouble getting the shaft housing to turn, so I started it up and put it in gear. It moved it all right. It also put so much tension on the chain that it broke the sprocket into about 3 pieces. (Damn I'm an idiot sometimes, that move cost me $50 and another night in the shop). Hope this helps. Post another reply if this didn't make sense.
The front chain is probably the biggest pain of the three. First, remove the plastic cover over the chain. Second, there is one bolt holding the front shaft housing in place. You have to use a socket (can't remember the size exactly, but I think its a 5/8 inch) wrench with an extension on it. Stick the socket up through the bottom of the floorboard right below the front shaft housing (housing with the u-joints leading to the front wheels). Loosen this bolt. Upon loosening the bolt, spray a little WD-40 around the shaft housing to help it rotate. Stick a pin through the sprocket and into the shaft housing. Use a strong pin that will go a ways into the shaft housing. I think you can stick a pin all the way through the housing. I bent several pins until I found one hard enough. Once you have the pin in, roll the vehicle backwards until the chain is tight. The shaft housing does not rotate real well. The secret is that there is a few places that the pin can go into. Figure out which one gives the best leverage on moving the shaft housing with the sprocket. This sounds confusing, but will make sense once you try a few different holes. Once the chain is tight, retighten everything back up.
Oh, by the way, do not attempt to use the motor to roll the vehicle backwards. I was having trouble getting the shaft housing to turn, so I started it up and put it in gear. It moved it all right. It also put so much tension on the chain that it broke the sprocket into about 3 pieces. (Damn I'm an idiot sometimes, that move cost me $50 and another night in the shop). Hope this helps. Post another reply if this didn't make sense.
#5
ENDL
I will do my best to help you. I am assuming the 96 is the same as my 98 with the three chain system. For the rear chain, you need to take a ratchet strap and hook it to the hitch and the rear subframe. Crank the strap down until the rear of the vehicle is completely squatted or the swingarm is horizontal with the subframe. This eliminates the slack in the chain (this step is no longer necessary on the newer concentric drive models). Once you have the rear squatted, check the chain tension. It should still have about 3/8 to 1/2 of free play. If you need to adjust it. Loosen the rear swingarm bolts (large bolts holding the hitch and bearing housing onto the swingarm. Upon getting these loose, stick a drift pin or screwdriver through the hole in the socket into the bearing housing on the swingarm. You have to find the right hole. The pin will go about an 1 into the bearing housing. With the pin in place, roll the vehicle forward. This will twist the bearing housing within the swing arm and tighten the chain. When the chain is tight enough, remove the pin and righten the swingarm bolts to 45-50 ft/lbs. Check the movement of the chain guard to ensure it is not rubbing. Remove the ratchet strap, lube chain and ride. Check the middle and front chain also. These do not need to be adjusted that often. If you need to adjust these, post another reply and I will walk you through this. It is essentially the same principal. Hope this helps.
I will do my best to help you. I am assuming the 96 is the same as my 98 with the three chain system. For the rear chain, you need to take a ratchet strap and hook it to the hitch and the rear subframe. Crank the strap down until the rear of the vehicle is completely squatted or the swingarm is horizontal with the subframe. This eliminates the slack in the chain (this step is no longer necessary on the newer concentric drive models). Once you have the rear squatted, check the chain tension. It should still have about 3/8 to 1/2 of free play. If you need to adjust it. Loosen the rear swingarm bolts (large bolts holding the hitch and bearing housing onto the swingarm. Upon getting these loose, stick a drift pin or screwdriver through the hole in the socket into the bearing housing on the swingarm. You have to find the right hole. The pin will go about an 1 into the bearing housing. With the pin in place, roll the vehicle forward. This will twist the bearing housing within the swing arm and tighten the chain. When the chain is tight enough, remove the pin and righten the swingarm bolts to 45-50 ft/lbs. Check the movement of the chain guard to ensure it is not rubbing. Remove the ratchet strap, lube chain and ride. Check the middle and front chain also. These do not need to be adjusted that often. If you need to adjust these, post another reply and I will walk you through this. It is essentially the same principal. Hope this helps.
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