Oil Question
#1
Oil question: I just got a new 05' Scrambler that came from the factory with P2 synthetic oil, some have told me I should drain this and run petro based oils for the break in period then go back to the synthetics. Is this really the case. What grade and brand of non-synthetic oil can be run in the Scrambler 500?
#3
Originally posted by: ViseGrips
Oil question: I just got a new 05' Scrambler that came from the factory with P2 synthetic oil, some have told me I should drain this and run petro based oils for the break in period then go back to the synthetics. Is this really the case.
Oil question: I just got a new 05' Scrambler that came from the factory with P2 synthetic oil, some have told me I should drain this and run petro based oils for the break in period then go back to the synthetics. Is this really the case.
Do not take any advice from these people in the future.
#4
Did they provide the basis for this oil change? is this your buddy? or the factory that said this?
Polaris wants you to put the wrong stuff in it so you will take it back to replace the parts....ha ha ha ha ha
Kids cornbread, just kids
Polaris wants you to put the wrong stuff in it so you will take it back to replace the parts....ha ha ha ha ha
Kids cornbread, just kids
#5
I originally read it in a past posting on this forum, then I read it again here
After reading this (about 3/4 down the webpage) I called a friend that does engine rebuilds (mostly street bikes) and he said that there is some truth to it and that it helps but it's not gospel. However, he also made a good point by asking "What does your warranty say you should run for oil". I've just never heard this "No Synthetic Oil during break in" before, so I figured I throw it out and see if others have.
After reading this (about 3/4 down the webpage) I called a friend that does engine rebuilds (mostly street bikes) and he said that there is some truth to it and that it helps but it's not gospel. However, he also made a good point by asking "What does your warranty say you should run for oil". I've just never heard this "No Synthetic Oil during break in" before, so I figured I throw it out and see if others have.
#6
When the full synthetics started hitting the market, it was said not to put it in a fresh engine because it was "TOO" slick, and would not allow the rings to seat correct.
If the factory puts it in there, USE it! If it was going to be bad for the break in of the engine you would know in the first 100 hour of life.
If the factory puts it in there, USE it! If it was going to be bad for the break in of the engine you would know in the first 100 hour of life.
#7
I agree with thrash and crash. Chevrolet puts synthetic in the corvette from the factory. It used to be petroleum broke the engine in better but it was never proved out. GM, Dodge and Honda have an ASEP program at the local college and all there agree that synthetic is fine any time brand new or later.
Steve Lubecki
Steve Lubecki
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#8
Well here is my 2 cents. Maybe 3 cents on a good day!!!!
I never use syn in a new engine. The reason?
NOTE: Do not use synthetic oil during the break-in period. It is not recommended to use any type of oil restrictors to the lifter galley, or use windage trays, baffles,or plug any oil return holes in the valley. Oil has a two-fold purpose, not only to lubricate, but to draw the heat away from whatever it comes in contact with. The cam needs oil splash from the crankcase, and oil run-back from the top of the engine to help draw the heat away. Without this oil flow, all the heat generated at the cam is transferred to the lifter, which can contribute to it's early demise.
The above is a quote right off of Crane cams site. The last cam I installed had the same quote on the instructions. Now; it's been awhile since I have put a hi-per motor together with a Crane can in it and things change; so I went to Cranes site and..............well I'll be a stripped *** monkey......there it is again!!!!! STILL!!!!
Do not use synthetic oil during the break-in period.
Now, that being said, let me do some speculation. Why do some manufactures put syn in from the start? WELL..............we all know syn is more slippery than dino oil. So if the spec's are a little off from the factory (bore size, ect) the manufacture has a better chance of the motor NOT blowing up and THEM fixing it on their $$$$$'s. Get it?
Does "optimum" ring seal suffer? You bet it does. Not much. Not much at all, but it does suffer.
Crane knows their business. Why do they only recomend dino for break-in with their cams? I have no idea.??? I think it may have something to do with high spotting but that is just a guess? Maybe someone can call them and ask a tech. Then can give their reason on this board. Here is the #386-258-6174
And while I'm on my rant. People on this board make too much about syn oil IMHO. Sure it's good stuff, but it's also expensive. I have been building engines for a long time and have never had an oil related failure on dino. Still run it in a drag car; but I do run syn in a round-d-round car. If the clearences are correct you can run almost any lube you want and it will be fine. Have them off, and you better cross your fingers; even if you run syn!!!
I never use syn in a new engine. The reason?
NOTE: Do not use synthetic oil during the break-in period. It is not recommended to use any type of oil restrictors to the lifter galley, or use windage trays, baffles,or plug any oil return holes in the valley. Oil has a two-fold purpose, not only to lubricate, but to draw the heat away from whatever it comes in contact with. The cam needs oil splash from the crankcase, and oil run-back from the top of the engine to help draw the heat away. Without this oil flow, all the heat generated at the cam is transferred to the lifter, which can contribute to it's early demise.
The above is a quote right off of Crane cams site. The last cam I installed had the same quote on the instructions. Now; it's been awhile since I have put a hi-per motor together with a Crane can in it and things change; so I went to Cranes site and..............well I'll be a stripped *** monkey......there it is again!!!!! STILL!!!!
Do not use synthetic oil during the break-in period.
Now, that being said, let me do some speculation. Why do some manufactures put syn in from the start? WELL..............we all know syn is more slippery than dino oil. So if the spec's are a little off from the factory (bore size, ect) the manufacture has a better chance of the motor NOT blowing up and THEM fixing it on their $$$$$'s. Get it?
Does "optimum" ring seal suffer? You bet it does. Not much. Not much at all, but it does suffer.
Crane knows their business. Why do they only recomend dino for break-in with their cams? I have no idea.??? I think it may have something to do with high spotting but that is just a guess? Maybe someone can call them and ask a tech. Then can give their reason on this board. Here is the #386-258-6174
And while I'm on my rant. People on this board make too much about syn oil IMHO. Sure it's good stuff, but it's also expensive. I have been building engines for a long time and have never had an oil related failure on dino. Still run it in a drag car; but I do run syn in a round-d-round car. If the clearences are correct you can run almost any lube you want and it will be fine. Have them off, and you better cross your fingers; even if you run syn!!!
#9
Thanks for feedback everyone. At the end of the day, I still think its important to remember that using anything other than the recommended oil during break in could void a warranty if anything should go wrong with the machine. After that, I guess it's really a matter of what religion you practice. I suppose that if using the factory synthetic oil during break in was all that bad, there would be a lot of machines heading back to the factory for warranty replacements, or at least a horrible reputation for engine reliability.
**Anyone else want to add anything before I let this post age??
**Anyone else want to add anything before I let this post age??


