Well carpenters, I need some help. I framed for about a year or so pretty hard too. I've shingled, and drywalled too. Anyways, while framing, about the only thing they never taught me is how to make stairs........I understand how to do it, once the already have the stair guides on the framing square.......but I need more info than that. I do odds and ends jobs now, with a friend and an older couple wants us to put some new stairs on their deck. For now.......lets just say the height of the deck is 4' .........any other info you need, just make it up.......but tell me you made it up, and I can get the general idea from there. Thanks a lot. Brad

 

figure out the rise of the step first,for example if you are using 1x 6,it typically lands out to be 11 inches for a tread,so at an 8" rise (which is standard) you square out using the framer up 8,out 11.then slide the framer on the wood and see what pitch that is,adjust the kbobs that tighten on the framer and slide it down going 8,11 and when you finish with a 5 inch step,divide the inches needed (8-5=3)by the number or steps,and adjust(ie.7,11 instead of 8)
so that the last step is only 1 inch shorter than the rest (because it will not have any lumber on the ground to make the step1"shorter.When you see all of this done,its easier to comprehend.After you get good,you can simply measure the overall rise by leveling out to the landing and dividing the steps and knowing the exact rise(ie 7 1/4,8,8 1/2) right off the bat.
Good luck!Thats why we use pencils-ERASERS!

 

Hey thanks a lot.........I really appriciate it.


It makes sense what you said........I knew you had to factor all that stuff in........but just couldn't come up with how. Again, thanks a lot

 

Just got another project........a little bigger this time. I have to remodel a kitchen. I'm going to completely gut it(plaster, cubboards, possibly flooring too)........I have to install a new pella window, and their kitchen wall(where the sink, countertop, and oven sit next to)......they want another door way on the other side of the kitchen wall........and a big "window" in then center of the wall above the sink. This window, or opening, is going to be about 5' wide, and 3.5' high. I might end up putting down a "wood" floor like from Lowe's.......that just snaps together........any ideas about that? I also might end up putting tile behind the sink area, up on the wall.......any comments(not real sure how to hold it against the vertical wall.......never tiled much before). I'll be sheetrocking the rest, where the old plaster used to be, and possilby hanging some wood paneling up about 4' high on the walls with a piece of trim on top of it. Then they are thinking of picking out some cabinets from Lowe's and having them come and "professionally" install them.

My main question is about the new door way I'm making(no actual door will be there, just an entrance)......and the opening I'll be making above the sink. This wall I'm guessing is a bearing wall.......so will cutting that many studs out cause the wall to collapse?? I just want to be on the safe side. I'll be replacing the end studs with double king studs, and then having a double 2x10 header to span the width of the opening. Any suggestions??? I appriciate any help or suggestions you give.

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Wall kinda looks like that.......if you are stading looking at it........this would be an after shot. Before, it just has the doorway on the left......and I'm going to make the door on the right and the hole in the middle.........


Thanks,
Brad

 

forget the pic.......looked much better than that before......somehow it screwed up........

 

Is the wall an exterior wall? If so, its a bearing wall. You might want to take a look at the roof system that is sitting on top of the wall your going to modify with windows and doors. If there are no real heavy point loads or long spans sitting on this wall, you will have no problems at all with what your wanting to do with the headers. All your weight from the roof transfers down threw the walls and then on to the bearing.

 

I understand what bearing is........just not sure if this wall(interior) is a load bearing wall. The roof above it is plain pitch roof(about a 11/12)......in a "V" shape(can't think of the word now)......remember this house is quite old.......like 1900's area........probably has actual 2x4's in it too......my next problem......lol

 

Awwight, if the foundation is slab, then it will be hard to tell if its bearing. If it has a crawlspace then you might want to crawl under and see if the wall in question sits on a footing. If it has a basement all the easier to check. If it were me, I would check to see whats above and below this wall. Better to check it out and know what your getting into. I think the "V" shape name your talking about is a gable roof?? If so, there wont be to many bearing walls in it, unless its a huge house. I would guess that there are the three bearings in the house. One on each side and one in the middle, especially if its stick framed.

 

Ok, sounds good.......it is a fairly big house......probably 3500 sq ft........an old farm house. It has a full basement. And, yes gable is the word I was thinking of.........Not real sure how to check out what is above this wall......It is the middle floor.......it know no other walls sit on top of it, the next floor up. In the basement, there is a cement wall(made of bricks)......under the wall.....but it goes in the opposite direction as the wall.......so I doubt it is a bearing wall. I guess I'll have to check into it more when I get there.......


Any other opinions on the other things I questioned.......????

 

For your stairs take your total height and divide by how many steps you want.
EX 48/6=8 In MI we have a min-max code on the riser height.It is7.25-8.25.
What you set your stair dogs at for the tread will depend on if you want noseing or not
also.If you want noseing you would set them at example 8-10 that would give you a
1in noseing if useing 1x6.

For your wall do what MrDumass said and look in the attic to check for bearing.
If your openings arent to big you most likely will be safe.But your better safe than
sorry.

Sounds like youve gained alot of confidence since your post last yr.Good job.