Ok, I have it in the box. I have read a million posts on here. I think I understand EVERYTHING. There is one thing that seems to come to mind and I am not sure where I read it awhile back.... The engine side cover , can I keep the water pump attached AND the hoses. I read where someone just tied the cover back, did the clutch work and put it all back with no water to mess with.



Tools:

1.) 5mm allen head (socket) I made one....used a 1/4 drive 5mm socket and cut a section of a 5mm allen wrench off with my die grinder. For side case bolts.

2.) 10mm wrench and 10mm socket to remove 1 foot peg bolt (forward one). Also for 6 clutch spring bolts.

3.) Torque wrench!!!! DO NOT start on this job without a SMALL torque wrench.

4.) Zip ties or string/wire. For holding cover out of the way.



Steps:

1.) SOAK NEW CLUTCH PACK IN OIL! (30 min). I also stacked them ready to go with the steels. I used the origional box with 2 small grocery bags lining it for the soaking. Later you can pick up the inner bag and poke a hole to drain it back into the oil bottle. You may be running Synthetic $$$ oil so you might want to save the quart of gold.

2.) Place the quad 45 degrees (+/- a few) on its right side to transfer the oil away. You can do this the day before, I did. Make it secure!

3.) Remove forward 10mm headed bolt and nut on footpeg for clearence. If you have an X you will have to remove the 2 large Nerf bolts also to gain access to this 10mm headed nut below.

4.) Remove the side cover bolts, 2 starter bolts, shifter arm (mark it!), clutch cable, clutch actuator fork (!!! MARK POSITION !!!), and remove cover. Zip tie it to the handle bars out of your way.

5.) Remove the 6 spring bolts in a star cross pattern a few threads at a time untill they are removed. Lift clutch springs plate off.

6.) Observe the first friction (known as the last one back on) is off set from the rest. The new clutch has 2 green frictions and one has smaller tabs, that one goes there on install. Remove steels and frictions.

7.) Install the new pack, if you dont have them stacked.......Install new STEEL FIRST, then Green friction, then steel, then regular friction.....and so on untill the last Green friction (has narrow tabs). Then position clutch springs plate.

8.) Install NEW springs and spring bolts in the star pattern a few threads at a time untill they are snug then tighten to 89 inch lbs "NOT FOOT POUNDS!".

9.) Install cover. Align clutch actuator fork (Pay attention position and you will have to play with "pre alignment" it to get the angle you had before removal) and then the cable (used a big pliers "gently" to move arm to get cable back on).

10.) Install shift lever (per your markings).

11.) Test ride it, but I was easy on it, just went through the gears and parked it. I noticed the downshifting was a tad stiff and finding neutral was hard. But that was expected since its not broke in yet.


****Notice I didn't mention removing the old gasket, I didn't need to change it. I have a new gasket in the bag, my cover came off nice. No leaks! ****

 

The engine side cover , can I keep the water pump attached AND the hoses.


No you have to remove the water pump cover to remove the water pump impeller before you can remove the engine side cover.

 

Since this is your first time doing the clutch I suggest making it as easy on your self as possible. Drain the oil so you don't have to keep the quad on its side. Drain the coolant so you can actually pull the side cover completely off. This way you can fully inspect everything.

I have never had to pull the water pump impeller or what pump cover, it all came off with the clutch cover.

Check out my web site under technical, I did a write up on the clutch install with photos and a part from the manual.

 

BajaX04 disregard my post above.

LOL I guess I didn't need to do the extra work I did when I changed mine out. I pull the water pump cover & impeller. Thank for the info sandaholic, I'll try it that way next time, sounds much easier.

 

Nice save COUNTRY I was gonna jump in on ya lol!!

 

*******I have never had to pull the water pump impeller or what pump cover, it all came off with the clutch cover.


I really dont want to waste my oil and coolant....I just changed them and I run spendy Bomb oil.

So I may just do what you did and take my time.

Thanks for the link, great info!!

 

LOL thats why I didn't delete my post above, it wasn't my save but sandaholics. I give props to those I learn from.

 

Your learn ,,, your save,,, Let's give credit where credit is due??!! lol Hey you took it back!!

 

I have had my clutch cover off several times and never lost a drop of oil or coolant. Keep the water pump assembly and hoses intact and save yourself the hassle. Pull the clutch cover and wrap a couple of bungee cords around and secure somewhere up near the handlebards. I actually find it easier to work with it tipped on its side. Just make sure you have it secured in place so that it can't tip over or come crashing down while your working on it. I use a couple of tie downs sucured to the rafters in my garage.

Be sure to read Vipers post about the throw out bearing being pushed in when placing the cover back on. This will cause the "hard to find neutral" problem so many have reported. I still have the neutral problem with mine and need to go in and take a look at this as well.

Let us know how it turns out.

 

650VIPER'S POST: No it works great. I found the problem that I was having.......after taking the cover off tons of times.............and cussing like all get out. When I put the cover back on after the first install, I must not have lined up the cover perfect, and pushed the throwout bearing back in about a half an inch, so I didnt have enough throw on the lever to disengage it. So just be careful and dont push on the cover, it should go back together easily. As for the gasket, I have had my cover off, oh 8 times or so, same gasket. I would get one for a backup just incase you tear it though. Great clutch.


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