oil
#1
The latitude in choosing oil for your Prairie matches that for your automobile, largely.
Lighter weight oil in winter; higher viscosity in summer.
I haven't used every synthetic available, don't rightly know how good each may be protecting the cam lobes from wear; however, I believe a petroleum product within the service codes and weights recommended will protect your machine adequately.
If it's real real real real cold where you operate, you might consider synthetic or a blend at least for those chilly months; the synthetic flows better at low temperatures, permitting easier starting.
Keeping the proper level of lubricant and changing it regularly remain most important.
Tree Farmer
Lighter weight oil in winter; higher viscosity in summer.
I haven't used every synthetic available, don't rightly know how good each may be protecting the cam lobes from wear; however, I believe a petroleum product within the service codes and weights recommended will protect your machine adequately.
If it's real real real real cold where you operate, you might consider synthetic or a blend at least for those chilly months; the synthetic flows better at low temperatures, permitting easier starting.
Keeping the proper level of lubricant and changing it regularly remain most important.
Tree Farmer
#4
I don't follow the Kawasaki line a lot, but, if you have the belt driven automatic transmission, one of the best oils I've found so far is the Synthetic Polaris 0W-40. (its green)
Not just for Polaris engines, but any small engine. If you have the manual shift with a wet clutch. i would just go with the Kawi-Chem engine oil. We run that in 3 small three-wheelers (Hondas and a Kawasaki) with great success...
Just stay away from automotive oils.....
Not just for Polaris engines, but any small engine. If you have the manual shift with a wet clutch. i would just go with the Kawi-Chem engine oil. We run that in 3 small three-wheelers (Hondas and a Kawasaki) with great success...
Just stay away from automotive oils.....
#5
Mudmachine,
I know I might sound ignorant, but bear with me, I'm new at the atv thing. Why stay away from automotive oils? If an automotive oil has a service code that matches what the manual says, shouldn't it work?
Thanks for your advice,
Havetohunt
I know I might sound ignorant, but bear with me, I'm new at the atv thing. Why stay away from automotive oils? If an automotive oil has a service code that matches what the manual says, shouldn't it work?
Thanks for your advice,
Havetohunt
#6
ATVs share the engine oil with the crankcase. The manufacturers add special additives to the oil (for the clutches, etc) Although Automotive oil is suppsed to work, I personally would not use it. The OEM oil only runs a few bucks more...to me it's not worth the risk of running automotive oil--even though many people do without problems.
#7
Is it possible to buy the proper, non-automotive oil without going to a motorcycle/quad dealer?
I mean is there such a thing as Castroil(or other name brand)Motorcycle oil?
I mean is there such a thing as Castroil(or other name brand)Motorcycle oil?
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#8
Pfelect
I have extremely good luck with extreme duty
oils designed for diesel engines. I use Shell
Rotella-T 15w-40 in my ATVs. Also another
good one is Chevron Delo 400 in the same weight.
These oils are easier to find than motorcycle
oils (unless you live near a motorcycle shop).
Good luck
MikeyB
I have extremely good luck with extreme duty
oils designed for diesel engines. I use Shell
Rotella-T 15w-40 in my ATVs. Also another
good one is Chevron Delo 400 in the same weight.
These oils are easier to find than motorcycle
oils (unless you live near a motorcycle shop).
Good luck
MikeyB
#9
Pfelect yes you can sometimes find motorcycle oil in your local auto parts store. I have seen castrol motorcycle oil in regular and a synthetic
I know Penzoil makes it also. I think most big oil companys do. I personaly just use Yamalube because i own a yamaha.
I know Penzoil makes it also. I think most big oil companys do. I personaly just use Yamalube because i own a yamaha.
#10
OK,
I might not be able to explain this as well as other noted posters on here, but here goes...
In a normal 4-stroke ATV engine (one that has a wet-clutch) The engine oil not only protects the engine components, but the transmission as well.
Part of the transmission is the wet-clutch assembly.
ATV oils have been formulated to not "attack" the fiberous surfaces of the clutch pack. Automotive oils do not have the properties of motorcycle oils.
All that being said, I have heard of people running regular Penzoil and Quaker State and claim to have never had a problem.....
But, I have also replaced more than my fair share of clutch packs for people on 2 and 3 year old machines.... I usually suggest that they go back to the motorcycle oils... But, if they want to save $$$$ on oil changes and pay me every 2-3 years for a clutch swap... I don't have a problem with that....lololol...
I might not be able to explain this as well as other noted posters on here, but here goes...
In a normal 4-stroke ATV engine (one that has a wet-clutch) The engine oil not only protects the engine components, but the transmission as well.
Part of the transmission is the wet-clutch assembly.
ATV oils have been formulated to not "attack" the fiberous surfaces of the clutch pack. Automotive oils do not have the properties of motorcycle oils.
All that being said, I have heard of people running regular Penzoil and Quaker State and claim to have never had a problem.....
But, I have also replaced more than my fair share of clutch packs for people on 2 and 3 year old machines.... I usually suggest that they go back to the motorcycle oils... But, if they want to save $$$$ on oil changes and pay me every 2-3 years for a clutch swap... I don't have a problem with that....lololol...


