Has anyone been through the carb/intake boot seperation pain, or am I the only one? It seems my Raptor has been a little sensitive to starting with any throttle and when/if it sneezes, it may seperate the intake boots from the carbs. I had the dealer order and install boots and "O" Rings originally, but it did it again. Ofcourse, I just reseat and tighten the hell out of them to cure it, but I need a long term fix. Seems due to design, when the engine accelerates and torques forward, it pulls away from the carbs...whaaazzzuuu?

 

been there, done that!

1) You should not have to pay for the rubber boots. The tech support at Yamaha told my dealer that if they had blown off more than once, they should be replaced.

2) They are blowing off because the mixture is too lean. The dealer should readjust the mixture screw out on both carbs. I think it was 2 1/4 turns out.

3) Your airbox (which is connected to your carbs) is fastened to the frame with slotted holes. The airbox should have the screws loosened up and then be pushed forward so that the rubber boots aren't always pulling away from the motor. The clamps on the rubber boots may have to be loosened
up before you can adjust the airbox forward.

 

Scott,

Thanks for the advice! I've already had them replaced once, but my dealer obviously didn't get the same tech advice as yours...Tell me about that clutch if ya would. Did it go before you replaced, or did you step up and is the Kevlar a good clutch? I feel mine is slipping a little already with paddle tires.

 

my carbs blew off omost every time i went out and rode my raptor so i had to take tools to fix it when they came off. i made the maistake off taking off the spacers and retighting it but after a while it cracked my boot. when i took it in to get the valve adjustment they put the spacers back in replaced one of my boots and after they valve adjustment they dont come off anymore.

 

Well, about the clutch. I believe I was probably the first in the country to replace one, so at the time, we supposed that the problem was due to running it without enough free-play in the cable instead of blaming it on the clutch itself.

It had been working perfectly, until I got into a ditch that I was going to ease my way out of. It seemed to burn the clutch up in just a matter of seconds and I ended up just pushing it out of the ditch.

The dealer graciously covered it under warranty because it was so new. The metal plates in my were not warped, so the mechanic just took an abrasive pad and cleaned them up. We didn't want to use the steel plates from the Barnett Banshee kit because they were a bit more narrow than on the Raptor. We used a Barnett clutch kit from a Banshee as they were the same size, but we still had to locate 2 half sized clutch plates that the Banshee didn't come with.

We also used the Barnett heavy duty springs. They are a bit tighter than the stock springs, but the Raptor has five springs as opposed to 6 on the Banshee, so the pull is still fairly easy.

I believe the clutch kit that we obtained most of the parts from was called a Barnett Dirt Digger clutch kit. I didn't read on the package, but the dealer said it was supposed to be the Kevlar one. Either way, it didn't cost me anything, has been durable so far and has a very good feel to it. some people said it would be too "grabby" and that I wouldn't be able to slip the clutch any longer. That isn't true at all. Hope some of this helps!

 

When I asked the mechanic about the carbs blowing off, he said most of the ones they are seeing are the ones with after market pipes that have not been re-jetted. He said to turn the mixture screw on the left carb out about 1/2 to 3/4 turn. I have contacted FMF and asked what jets they reccomend bt have gotten no respponse. I am open to suggestions also.

 

Took a look at my spark plug a few minutes ago to see if it might look like it was blistered as if it was running to lean with the FMF pipe. Looked good. I started it up and watched the carbs as I played with the throttle and you can see them pulsate as you give it some throttle. Can see why they could blow off if not secured down. Do you know if any of the other bikes blow these off like the Raptor does?

 

RR2001,

No, most bikes I ride with (Banshees Mostly) have the carbs mounted with (brackets) or to the engine, so they move with the engine. As stated above, the problem seems to be a simple fix, so I printed the response (Thanks Bash) just to make sure the Yami Guys do all they can to make this right. I'm mechanically inclined, but I shouldn't have to work on or carry a #3 allen to ride a 3 month old bike! As they say "What goes around, comes around", and just as I was rubbing in the electric start, no gas mix, and reverse to the Banshee Boyz, (and they do envy it!), I ended up borrowing the right allen to get outta the pit!! Seperate issue - tell me about the FMF pipe and #s if you would.

 

Raptorup....I've been there and done that also. The problem is in the lean idle circuit. If you have your tools on board and tighten the boots up too tight, your ride might rip the boots when it backfires through the carbs...then you will have to be pulled back. When mine was serviced for this problem, my carbs was adjusted as follows with the stock pilots....left side=3 turns out...right side=2 turns out. If you have the spark arrester out or the snorkle off you will need to go up on the pilot...25's should do.

 

Hey Raptorrider

Do you have FMF pipes on your bike? Which one? How does it perform?