i just got the little honda 185s running and it seems to have a lot of engine noise? is this normal, its not the piston or any thing knocking, i backed the timing chain tensioner adjusting nut to let the tensioner adjust itsself, the noise changed but still the noise of a loose chain noise? dont know, it dont sound bad just noisy, is this normal? i did find some metal shavings in the oil filter screne about a teaspoon worth, is it very hard to change a timing chain? any suggestions would be great. also the engine does not smoke at all. the timing advnace was broken when i purchased the atc????

 

Cam chain or cam chain guides most likely. Not a simple fix, but doable. I rode my 185S for two full seasons with the same noise and never really had a problem. I finally pulled the jug and replaced...then stupidly sold the machine.

 

well that is kinda a reliever for now, but were the cam chain guides worn so bad the chain was eating away metal parts? all those metal shavings worry me, but its not a airplane or anyting, just when im out in the middle of a frozen lake ice fishing i dont want to worry about walking back, let alone pushing it back. where could i find a manual, iv looked at alot of other peoples posts but no luck on a manual, and yes im sure the dealer has one, but how about the nett.

 

all ill need is a complete gasket kit, flywheel puller, timing chain tensioners (2) and a new chain, can you think of any other special tools? im a auto tech at a chev dealer during the day so i hope i can do it.

 

If I remember right, I was able to replace the cam and guides simply by pulling the head/jug. It was a bit tricky to fish the new chain down around the cam but I was possible if I remember right. I don't remember having to split the cases. Should be a simple job, all you need is a torque wrench and I believe a 12mm socket...and the parts of course. Let me look around a bit...I know there is a place to get the manual online.

 

You could probably get away without any gaskets. i've done it many times without it. depends on how far gone things are: ie- if it's been sitting outside for 20 years... outside of that, it's very simple to do. BTW, you really only need the sprung tensioner, the other is just a guide. Also, before you go and do that, you might want to pull the entire adjuster assembly out of the bottom of the engine and make sure the 2 split locks that hold the tensioner in place are not hung up on the tensioner shaft. They can get burred over time and hung up and you can try all you want to adjust it, and it won't go past the point where the burr is. It's easily seen if you put the bike up on it's side and pull it out. Assuming it's not burred, then there is one more trick you can do. If you have the 2 split locks moving freely on the tensioner shaft, and the bolt that threads into the bottom of the engine is loose (the inspection/adjustment bolt that threads into the locking bolt should be removed), you can push up on the tensioner with a narrow screwdriver while at the same time tightening the nut that locks everything in place. This way you can push the adjuster past the point it is 'bent' originally to, meaning, it will only take up so much slack in the chain with the original bend it has, but if you push up on the end of the tensioner's shaft it will bend more and put more tension on the chain. I hope this all makes sense. I have done this MANY times and it works fine. The only problem that could happen is the timing on the cam could change by 1 or 2 degrees. Which means nothing to a stock motor that you are putting around on (which is all this 'fix' is good for), but if you are a RACER then you will want to replace everything anyway. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] Hope this has helped more then confused.

 

Try here: http://www.drivehq.com/file/ShowFold...shareID=233462

Only download what you need, the person who hosts this pays for the bandwidth himself, which is very costly when you download something. So please use it sparingly.

 

Hold yer horses! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

No need to take the head or anything else like that off. All you need to take off is the little cover on the CDI assembly, cdi, cdi housing, 2 bolts that hold the cam gear on the cam shaft, bolt on the side of the cylinder holding the tensioner in, pullstarter, flywheel, side cover. you can fish the tensioner up through the cases from the cranks opening (which is how you'll get the old tensioner out), and the chain down from the cam. I've done the whole thing in less then an hour and didn't replace any gaskets/seals.

 

How do you slide the new guides in then? I recall trying it that way, and found it impossible when I did it. Couldn't get the chain around the lower gears....the guides had to be removed in order to have enough room to get the chain around the lower sprocket.