So I took my SP swimming with me. . . . . . . . .
#1
And now it runs like CRAP. And the contacter for the winch just clicks and the shift indicater reads wrong, or not at all.
When I got it out of the water, I drained the air box, clutch cover, pulled the exhaust and spark plug. Yes, it hydolocked. I didn't get it shut down in time but at least it was at an idle and not running at speed. I changed the oil twice and then put new oil and filter in it as well as a new spark plug and stock paper air filter. Then it sat in the garage with the heat on for a week to help dry it out. I also pumped all the fuel out of it and put new premium in it. Now for the problems.
As for it running rough, it'll sometimes stall at idle or just taking off, and at steady throttle it backfires a bit thru the exhaust. And while tearing down the road, it's ok a 3/4 throttle but if you put the hammer down it actually slows down. It'll rev out to about 5200rpms ok and thats it. If I try to rev it any faster it bogs out and slows down. My top speed is about 35 mph. If I try to go faster it'll bog out and I can almost watch the temp gauge going up. When I cruise at a slower speed it cools quickly. I'm a little lost as to what now. The one thing I'm wondering is the UNI filter with the water washed most of the oil out and I'm sure it went into the intake. I washed the intake air temp senser in the airbox, but if theres any other senders farther on, does anyone think the oil will give the PCM a false reading and make it run rough??? There seems to lots of spark (good blue and snapping well) and the fuel is new and the flow is good. So I'm a little lost here. Low end seems fine, it just seems to be in the top of the rev range.
Now for the winch contacter, it just clicks and the winch will usually come out, but not go back in. It's done this before and the dealer put a new contactor on and it worked fine till I went into the drink. So it looks like I need another one.
And the shift indicater is a funny one. Sometimes it works perfect and the next time it will read blank or show low in nuetral, or low in park and so on. I went into the diagnostic mode and cheched the resistances as the cluster sees it and it's all over the place. So I think it's a switch problem.
Oh and the rear diff, front diff and ADC fluids are all new as well.
I hope this is a learning curve for me. I learned that YES a heavy Polaris will float with a rider on it. Cell phone, digital camera, key fobs and air compressors don't like water. And if it looks deep, it probably is. I think I need more lift for the next time LOL
Hopefully someone will be able to help me out with the running problem so I don't have to go to the dealer. I don't think warrranty will cover this one LOL Thanks Todd
When I got it out of the water, I drained the air box, clutch cover, pulled the exhaust and spark plug. Yes, it hydolocked. I didn't get it shut down in time but at least it was at an idle and not running at speed. I changed the oil twice and then put new oil and filter in it as well as a new spark plug and stock paper air filter. Then it sat in the garage with the heat on for a week to help dry it out. I also pumped all the fuel out of it and put new premium in it. Now for the problems.
As for it running rough, it'll sometimes stall at idle or just taking off, and at steady throttle it backfires a bit thru the exhaust. And while tearing down the road, it's ok a 3/4 throttle but if you put the hammer down it actually slows down. It'll rev out to about 5200rpms ok and thats it. If I try to rev it any faster it bogs out and slows down. My top speed is about 35 mph. If I try to go faster it'll bog out and I can almost watch the temp gauge going up. When I cruise at a slower speed it cools quickly. I'm a little lost as to what now. The one thing I'm wondering is the UNI filter with the water washed most of the oil out and I'm sure it went into the intake. I washed the intake air temp senser in the airbox, but if theres any other senders farther on, does anyone think the oil will give the PCM a false reading and make it run rough??? There seems to lots of spark (good blue and snapping well) and the fuel is new and the flow is good. So I'm a little lost here. Low end seems fine, it just seems to be in the top of the rev range.
Now for the winch contacter, it just clicks and the winch will usually come out, but not go back in. It's done this before and the dealer put a new contactor on and it worked fine till I went into the drink. So it looks like I need another one.
And the shift indicater is a funny one. Sometimes it works perfect and the next time it will read blank or show low in nuetral, or low in park and so on. I went into the diagnostic mode and cheched the resistances as the cluster sees it and it's all over the place. So I think it's a switch problem.
Oh and the rear diff, front diff and ADC fluids are all new as well.
I hope this is a learning curve for me. I learned that YES a heavy Polaris will float with a rider on it. Cell phone, digital camera, key fobs and air compressors don't like water. And if it looks deep, it probably is. I think I need more lift for the next time LOL
Hopefully someone will be able to help me out with the running problem so I don't have to go to the dealer. I don't think warrranty will cover this one LOL Thanks Todd
#3
Done it already. But thanks. And I've put about 30 miles on it like this so I would imagine the lines, filter and injector should be cleaned out by now
#6
well the back firing is the water still trying to burn out. did you pull the plug out to see what it looks like after you riding a while. sounds almost like the cdi or emc cutting out or making the bike run rich to protect the engine. hard to say w/ these efi's.
#7
Sorry to hear the news Scrammy..........I sure glad you didn't invite me on that run!!!!........How you anti-freeze level........Are you burning any coolant????.........(With that heating issue).......I know the head may be cracked if the temps are rising fast on you.
How far under do you have it??
........Did you do a Cyl. compression test?...........I sure you covered all the basics as of now.............Caper......
How far under do you have it??
........Did you do a Cyl. compression test?...........I sure you covered all the basics as of now.............Caper......
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#8
Sten. It's a bit of a misfire. It'll rev good untill about 5000 rpms and then it bogs. It'll actually slow down with more throttle. Very weird. I'll go pull the plug now.
Caper. It only runs hot when trying to get ant kind of speed out of it. Like it's running lean or something at higher rpms.
I'm lost. Hopefully tommorows ride it'll clear up
Caper. It only runs hot when trying to get ant kind of speed out of it. Like it's running lean or something at higher rpms.
I'm lost. Hopefully tommorows ride it'll clear up
#9
And what does the plug look like after wot. If it has an injector kinda like a car, could be that the injector driver is getting weak in the module. ECMs and most of the sensors don't like water.
#10
Well I pulled the plug and it's WHITE!!!! Definitly lean. But WHY?!?!?!?!?!? I'm starting to wonder if I want to ride it tomorrow. Maybe I'll sit this one out and head to the dealer Monday morning.
I also tryied to get codes out of it. But for some reason I couldn't. I followed the directions in the owner's manual. but it won't give me flash codes.
Any suggestions
I also tryied to get codes out of it. But for some reason I couldn't. I followed the directions in the owner's manual. but it won't give me flash codes.
Any suggestions



