What would be the hot Raptor set up for cross country?
#1
The subject title pretty much summed it up, but what do you think? Remember, this is a woods riding type deal, so ultra-wide won't do.
What would be the optimum rear axle width? Would you go with wider a-arms? different shocks? taller tires? different gearing? more power?
Also, does anyone know what the following would go for in good condition? Raptor front shocks, Raptor rear axle, Raptor wheels (with our without tires).
What would a straight stock Raptor steering stem sell for. I'll probably be buying one in the next week or so. It would be nice to find an upgrade takeoff that someone had at a good price. New is just a tad over $100.
Thanks for the help/tips guys!
What would be the optimum rear axle width? Would you go with wider a-arms? different shocks? taller tires? different gearing? more power?
Also, does anyone know what the following would go for in good condition? Raptor front shocks, Raptor rear axle, Raptor wheels (with our without tires).
What would a straight stock Raptor steering stem sell for. I'll probably be buying one in the next week or so. It would be nice to find an upgrade takeoff that someone had at a good price. New is just a tad over $100.
Thanks for the help/tips guys!
#2
Hey scott, sorry to hear about your wreak. You have the same color scheme as I do - pictures made me sick. . . . . Did you try to place a "wanted:" ad in the classifieds? With everyone moding their Raptors, seems like you should get plenty of hits on it. Guess you never did get around to replacing those rear meats eh? Probably wouldn't have made much difference though. I've almost done the same thing a couple of times with my holeshots. The front end is just WAY light.
#3
I am setting mine up for this season's X country racing. check it out at
http://www.geocities.com/raptorterry
sold my factory front shocks for $45
sold factory rims for like $150
trying to sale my axle for $75
just get different rims with a bit of an offset for about a 2" wider stance. My beadlocks did just perfect. Didn't want to be too wide for the woods
http://www.geocities.com/raptorterry
sold my factory front shocks for $45
sold factory rims for like $150
trying to sale my axle for $75
just get different rims with a bit of an offset for about a 2" wider stance. My beadlocks did just perfect. Didn't want to be too wide for the woods
#4
Bash, I have a wolverine and a blaster that I am currently setting up for woods racing, I have raced in woods races before so I know whats good to have an what isnt, here are the products I would buy in order of most important.
1.Footpeg extenders (nacs has em keeps your feet on the pegs, nerf bars snag on stuff to much for the woods)
2.Handle bars you like renthal, tag, protaper etc.
3.kill switch, most organizations require them
4.wheel bead locks, or reinforcement rings (omf)
5.pipe and jetting, procircuit makes a good pipe and has a tip that adds bottom end, good for woods)
6.axle, any type is better than stock, I jump my wolverine on a durablu, and it puts plenty of strain on it and its as true as it was when it was new)
7. air filter, uni foam,prodesign setup is good!
8. different a-arms, not necessarily wider but different geometry, doug rolls are expensive but good.
9.shoulda made this #1, steering dampner, pep and denton make good ones.
10.prm, skids bumper grabbar etc. there cheap but quality is a 10, if you bend them there cheaper to replace than Dirty Garbage, and AC stuff bends easy.
11. tires stock are good for handling but puncture resistence is low, try holeshots or turftammers, or bandits, all around good tires for woods racing and high ply ratings are important.
12. keep engine mods down so its reliable.
13.dont cut fenders, wind resistence is not a problem, and keeps mud off of ya if you leave em on.
14. remove center console so you dont destroy it.
15. waterproof anything that looks like its not.
16.shocks of your choice, usually you get what you pay for.
17.fabricate oil line cover, any thin piece of aluminum will work.
this should make you ultra competitive and give you a reliable quad at the same time, then it leaves it up to rider skill.
1.Footpeg extenders (nacs has em keeps your feet on the pegs, nerf bars snag on stuff to much for the woods)
2.Handle bars you like renthal, tag, protaper etc.
3.kill switch, most organizations require them
4.wheel bead locks, or reinforcement rings (omf)
5.pipe and jetting, procircuit makes a good pipe and has a tip that adds bottom end, good for woods)
6.axle, any type is better than stock, I jump my wolverine on a durablu, and it puts plenty of strain on it and its as true as it was when it was new)
7. air filter, uni foam,prodesign setup is good!
8. different a-arms, not necessarily wider but different geometry, doug rolls are expensive but good.
9.shoulda made this #1, steering dampner, pep and denton make good ones.
10.prm, skids bumper grabbar etc. there cheap but quality is a 10, if you bend them there cheaper to replace than Dirty Garbage, and AC stuff bends easy.
11. tires stock are good for handling but puncture resistence is low, try holeshots or turftammers, or bandits, all around good tires for woods racing and high ply ratings are important.
12. keep engine mods down so its reliable.
13.dont cut fenders, wind resistence is not a problem, and keeps mud off of ya if you leave em on.
14. remove center console so you dont destroy it.
15. waterproof anything that looks like its not.
16.shocks of your choice, usually you get what you pay for.
17.fabricate oil line cover, any thin piece of aluminum will work.
this should make you ultra competitive and give you a reliable quad at the same time, then it leaves it up to rider skill.
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