Hi Guys,

Last fall, just before parking it for the winter, I noticed an oil leak coming from my rear diff. This is the part of the diff that connects to the drive shaft (NOT the drive axles). I was riding it for a while and notice at the end of the ride, the diff was leaking. It was like dripping a drop every 2 seconds or so.

I guess I need to change the oil seal? So I plan on working on it in the next few weeks when it warms a little more. How much work am I looking at. Any tips, pointers? Do I need special tools , do I have to drop the diff, etc?

Dennis

 

You should get a service manual for your machine before doing this job. From what I remember from the last one I did I did not need any special tools. I can't find my service manual right now as my kids helped "clean up" my garage and I haven't found where they placed it yet.

I seem to remember removing the rear tire, unbolting the lower and then the upper A-arms and then giving the axle a couple of hard pulls and it pops out of the rear differential. Then I used a screw driver to pry out the old seal. You must be careful putting the new seal in so you do not bend its edges.

Then reinstall the axle and bolt the A-arms back on and put the tire back on and you are good to go.

SJ

 

Thanks Swampyjunior! From your description, it doesn't look like too difficult a job for me to do. I will give it a try in the next couple of weeks.

Dennis

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: swampyjunior

You should get a service manual for your machine before doing this job. From what I remember from the last one I did I did not need any special tools. I can't find my service manual right now as my kids helped "clean up" my garage and I haven't found where they placed it yet.



I seem to remember removing the rear tire, unbolting the lower and then the upper A-arms and then giving the axle a couple of hard pulls and it pops out of the rear differential. Then I used a screw driver to pry out the old seal. You must be careful putting the new seal in so you do not bend its edges.



Then reinstall the axle and bolt the A-arms back on and put the tire back on and you are good to go.



SJ</end quote></div>

 

Even though I have a service manual I still use a digital camera and take pictures as I take something a part for the first time. There just are not enough good detailed photos i nthe service manual. But, it does doa fairly good job.

I think I know where it is at and I will look at it tonight and let you know the procedure the manual has. I will add that the seals cost about $10 or $12. I think a shop would charge 2 hours labor. one to remove and another to install. so total price at a dealer should be around $200. You should be able to call and ask though. They have a list for the time it takes to do certain things and usually charge off that list for estimates.

SJ

 

Hi SwampyJunior,

I finally hauled my quad back from the cabin today so that I could work on it.

I noticed that there are 2 places where the differential is bolted on to the frame. I am assuming that I'll need to remove those bolts too? As for unbolting the A arms, is that to allow the axles to move back more?

Sorry for the questions. I will try and take some pictures in the next couple of days and maybe clarify exactly what I need to remove.

Dennis

 

So I checked the PDF Shop manual that someone had posted here and the only thing coming close would be removing the differential on page 6-4.

Do I have to remove the differential just to get the seal on the drive shaft out? IF I removed the bolts attaching the diff to the frame, would that be enough to slide the diff back to get to the seal

Anyone?

Dennis

 

Liteshow,

I was thinking it was the axle seal on the rear diff that was leaking. The drive shaft seal on the diff seems hard to get at. It is not necessary to take the diff out of the machine that I see. Mainly because if you remove the bolts on the A-arms you should not re-use them as they are friction nuts.

If it were me I would take the seat off, remove the air box, rear rack and plastics to give easier access to the bolts. There are couple of bolts on the shaft where it bolts to the engine yoke, and a couple more bolts on the shaft where it bolts to the differential.

I had to remove this shaft when I removed my engine to rebuild the top end before and they are hard to get at but easily done. Once the shaft is removed there should be a nut in the center of the yoke on the rear differential. It looks like if you remove that nut. the yoke will slide off and then you can pry the old seal out and install the new one. Put everything back on in reverse order.


I found my service manual so I will try to scan the direction into the computer tonight if you would like me to email them to you send me a PM with and address.

SJ
SJ

 

Hi Swampyjunior,

Yes, thanks for clarifying. I was a little confused about that the A arms stuff you mentioned and was wondering how they were related to the driveshaft. Anyways, it's clear now, and thanks for your input, I am more confident doing this seal change. Will be busy the next day or two so I should hopefully get to it later this week.

Sent you a PM.

Dennis

 

Can you help me. I am trying to remove the rear drive shaft from my 2004 400 auto FIS. I have removed the 4 bolts on the front of the shaft and the three on the rear of the shaft. I cannot get the shaft to come out. If I remove the 2 bolts holding the rear differental will there be enough room to remove this shaft? What did you do to remove this shaft?

Thanks

 

CatAttack,

You should be able to push the yoke back , towards the rear differential, from where it was bolted to the transmission. (4 bolts on the front). The bolts can be a bugger to remove and the two yoke plates the front may have rusted together.

Then it will drop down and you can remove the bolts off the back near the differential yoke and remove the shaft. Try giving it a tap with a hammer.

SJ