i have a 1998 yamaha warrior 350 i just found that the intake manifold was cracked thinking thats why it was popping and knocking and wouldnt idle.. i replaced that and put it on still did it.. i messed with the idle screw nothing still stalled... i cleaned the car still will start but pops and knocks... what could it be the air filter is clean and i just got a new sp... when i start if i have to rock the bike in order for it to start and then rev it to keep it running unless if i dont its sputter and stall... what could it be.. electrical? engine? if anyone can help me to point me in the right direction it would be great cause i9 wanted to ride it soon thanks if u know anything that could help email me at hostetler_truck@windstream.net thanks

 

also i didnt clean the WHOLE car just took the bottom part off and cleaned the bowl and float.. could that be what it is? it starts and drive fine but just wont idle at all just sputters and stalls

 

Probably the parking brake mechanism is bad. You have two switches on the clutch lever you need to bypass.

 

is that mean its electrical where are the switches on the clutch and idk about any parking brake on it..

 

anyone know anything i can look over or fix for it to idle and run without stalling.......= /

 

does anyone know if it is electrical.. it runs on choke but pops a lil and right when i take the choke off it spuuters and die no matter how far i have the idle screw in...plz

 

Has the bike been sitting up for a while? If so then you might need to clean the jets in the carb. They are the round brass pieces in the carb, and are exposed as soon as you take the bowl off. The jets are what stops up before anything else because they have a small hole in them.

 

Also if you still have the stock clutch lever with the parking brake function, there are 2 sensors (switches) in the clutch perch that lets the electrical system know if the clutch is in or out. These are very common for going bad. What most people do is just cut the wires off of the sensors, and 2 of them have to be tied together and the 2 for the other switch have to be left separated and capped off so they don't touch anything. I don't know which switch does what, I just played with mine until I got the right combo. Also I remove the parking brake cable, and get a Lonestar parking brake block-off plate for the rear brake caliper ($12). This will save some weight and get rid of junk off your machine.

 

are the brake switches lines right by the clutch lever or are they beneath the handlebars cause i would have to take off the handle bars and the front plastics to get to the wires in the front.. is that why it wont run off the choke? and i did that the bowl off and blow compressed air in it.. but u dont think that did the trick?

 

does anyone have a blow up diagram of a 98 warriors carb?