All,

I made a small tear on my body plastic
at the bottom right side on the outter lip
next to the FOOTWELL. This tear is no more
than an inch. I gout hung up tight sitting on
a PINE tree attempting to narrow my way
through, LOL So as it scraped against the side of the tree it
created the small rip tear.

Its not really that noticeable and I am not really
that worried about it, but my only concern is it further
ripping. I used some Gorilla Glue for smaller plastic
cracks on my hand guards NOT really sure how well
it would hold on this type of application. I think I could
heat bond it but not sure really what to use?

Suggestions? (Besides don't do anymore tears, LOL)

R'

 

I don't know if this applies to the Polaris plastic. But here is what i have done.
First, that tear has already stressed the plastic at the end of it, where it stopped. It is good to take a small drill and relieve the stress, by drilling a hole right there at the end. It stops the run per se.

If you know how to Plastic weld or have a welder that is good, that would be the best approach. Second best is a good curing adhesive. UV curing comes to mind.. I believe that there is a Gorilla glue formula that is a Urethane those are really good too.

Alternative, Ask you dealer how he would fix it.

 

There are plastic adhesives that will melt the plastic and fuse it together like it's been welded. I don't know if model car cement would work. Models look like polystyrene to me. You need something like plastic plumbing cement, but not for ABS. If you can figure out what kind of plastic it is you can find an industrial supply place for the glue. Check underneath for recycling symbols to see. I can tell you what kind of plastic it is if you see the letters or a number. My best guess would be number 5, PP, Polypropylene.

I do know that pop rivets, sheet metal, and pipe strap do wonders when you break things clean off. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

My wife cracked her fender pretty good and I drilled the holes at the ends has mentioned. I then drilled holes on each side of the crack and ran zip ties. I used a pair of pliers and pulled them really tight. The zip part is under the fender so that you don't see it. I stitched it up pretty good. I get a lot of complaments on the stitching. It has been this way for a few months now with no trouble.

 

Frankenstein stitches. lol. That's as bad as pipe strap and pop rivets.

The right plastic weld glue will make it one piece and look good. Crazy Glue won't even stick to it, so it has to be something made just for the type of plastic.

 

Or you can jsut add more tears to it. It'll make it look meaner!!! [img]i/expressions/devil.gif[/img]

 

I admit its not that pretty. Frankenstein is right.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: RandyL

Or you can jsut add more tears to it. It'll make it look meaner!!! [IMG][/IMG]</end quote></div>

Cut notches out so it looks like a sawblade. People will make room for you to go by.

 

I used this stuff i got from an auto body shop called 40/40 its black and sets up in 10 minutes and it is sandable. It is used to fix bumpers.

 

Here is a trick for wind Shields and plastic cracks. Once the plastic has a crack line it will get longer as time goes by,to stop this you drill a small hole at the end of the crack line this causes the crack to stop dead as it has no further room to advance . The hole acts like a dead end for any split of any material.