Okay, before we begin, I understand that body position is everything. Multiple Riders have all confirmed the same results.

That being said, I am really not impressed by the way my 660R deals with breaking the rear tires free . My banshee-sporting-buddy thought he'd show me it was my technique and proceeded to pitch himself and destroy my plastics at the same time!

I had read the reviews that said it had a high center of gravity, but I in no way realized just how bad it was going to be. I can hop on the banshee and do donuts all day long. Hop on the Raptor and it's high-siding after about 2/3 donut.

Where do I begin? Tires? Axle? Swingarm? Suspension Settings?

It's got ***** for Days, but that doesn't do me any good if I'm getting pitched!

 

put Razors on it and you can get jiggy all day long. Go with 20inch rear razors!

 

That's what I went with, I still haven't had a chance to ride it yet with the new tires/rims. Does it make a coinsiderable difference?

IronBear

 

air up the tires, soften the suspension slighlty, or buy some turf tamers and slide all you want.

 

HEY MY FRIEND. I RACE HARE SCRAMBLES AND HAD THE SAME COMPLAINT UNTIL I BENT THE AXLE AND REPLACED IT WITH A DURA BLUE +3. I ALSO PUT +1 DOUGLAS WHEELS ALL THE WAY AROUND WITH RAZAR TIRES. THE DIFFERENCE IS NIGHT AND DAY! HANDLES PERFECT NOW. GOOD LUCK.

 

From my experience the axle makes the biggest difference. Even with the grabby stock tires it will powerslide. Not as good as the shee' but it will do it as well as the 400ex.

I am not sure I would soften the suspension. Even though it would lower it a little, the softer shocks would cause a high side lean. They really should have come out with stiffer front shocks.

Blue Raptor
Durablue axle +5, Lonestar a-arms +3, gytr silencer, big gun header, renthal bar, TCS shocks, fastline brake lines

 

It's not a high center of gravity problem....the power delivery is the cause for poor sliding. The vacuum operated carbs do not give that instant power surge needed to break the tires loose is the real problem. Any atv...especially a 4-stroke atv would behave the same way if equipped with the vacuum operated set-up. This set-up with a wider axle should make a good racer...no wheelspin and wide enough to control the corner speed. Adjusting for more rear pre-load will shift a little weight off of the rear tires and good sliding tires will help some. Also.....does'nt the dyno-jet kit come with a lighter spring for the carbs? This is the spring that sits under the carb cab and applies pressure on the slide...vacuum has to build enough to overcome the resistance of the spring which lets the slide open. Less spring resistance should make for more "instant" power.

 

You didnt read the review very well . All the mags said that it hooked up to well with the stock radials and that ****ching the tires would be an easy fix

 

Do as Yamaraptor suggested. Air up the rears. It is a cheap fix until you decide what you want to do. I run 8 pounds in the rear and it makes a world of difference. Give it a try.

 

Don't put too much faith in those rags.... The 400EX comes with radials and doens't have a problem with powersliding....

I agree with Gary, the CV carbs don't cut it. My mildly modified 400EX felt like a 2 stroke after riding the Raptor. Fast rapping instantaneous HP, where the Raptor power was mildly, progressively delivered to me as I held the throttle. I also believe the narrow axle and high center of gravity are all partly to blame as well.

Personally I wouldn't screw around with putting too much preload on the rear shock or pressurizing the tires with too much air. You'll cause yourself more problems while somewhat correcting the ones you've got.

Fix the problem right and you'll be much happier.

I'd say axle and tires minimum. A carb fix would be icing on the cake. Combine that with a good set of ZPS style shocks and look out....